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  1. 1 point
    Miomantis paykullii (Egyptian Pygmy Mantis) Introduction: Miomantis paykullii has the classic mantis look but measures in at just an inch to an inch and a half at maturity.(Orin) This is a very hardy species.(agent A) Color: tan, yellow, and green. Native range: North Africa and Middle East . Difficulty level: beginner. Development: Nymphs grow quickly and are easily reared in small cages. Bad molts are rare.(Orin) Adult males live two to five months. After maturity is reached, females live as long as nine months and make six to twelve egg cases.(Orin) Behavior/temperament Degree of activity Degree of aggression or timidity Propensity to cannibalize Dynamics of threat display Captive Environment: You dont have to keep them warmer than 70 degrees, and they'll reach maturity in 4 months. If you keep them at 85-90 degrees, nymphs can be adult in just 2 months. This species can survive in a wide range of cages, from a simple deli cup to a tupperware container to a net cage, though that may be too much room for a tiny mantis. Humidity needs only to be in the 30-50% range, and they require little misting. They can grasp almost anything though a mesh lid is recommended for molting from.(agent A) Temperature range and humidity levels Type and size of enclosure(s) used. Substrate or lack thereof Cage furnishings, e.g. molting surfaces, perches, décor, plants, etc. Communal housing if applicable Feeding: The nymphs are very vicious eaters and cannibalism is occasionally noticed as early as L1. L1 nymphs can handle melanogaster but take a few days to start eating, and thus should not be kept warmer than 75 degrees until they start eating to prevent their metabolism from being faster than their rate of feeding, as this will kill them.This species should not be kept in groups as they are vicious and cannibalistic, capable of handling hydei as early as L2/L3 crickets, roaches, flies, moths and bees are readily accepted by the larger nymphs and adults of this species.(agent A) Feeding response Type and size of prey used and/or refused for various instars Quantity and frequency of feedings Breeding: Males can be longer than the females but have larger wings and a more graceful build. Females will eat males, but a one gallon breeding container is big enough for a successful mating cage. Adult males live two to five months. After maturity is reached, females live as long as nine months and make six to twelve eggcases.(Orin) Adults are not very long lived, males living anywhere between 2 and 4 months as adults, and females up to a year. Breeding can be attempted at 3 weeks for both sexes. As adults, males will eat a lot initially, but after 10 days into adulthood, they wont be as hungry and need only be fed once a week. Females should be fed daily, but due to their small size require very little food to fill. Before attempting to breed, it's recommended the adults be kept in separate rooms for a few days before attempting to breed, and they should both be introduced into a large cage. Males will promptly try to mount the female, and they seem to dart at her, rotating on her back 2 or 3 times in some cases. They will connect shortly afterward with connection lasting for 2-5 hours.(agent A) Sexing/sexual dimorphism (explanation of physical differences and/or adult sizes of the sexes) Time needed from last molt to copulation Tips: give us your methodology. Tips for inducing copulation and fecundity Tips for inducing female to lay oothecae Oothecae: Oothecae are an eighth of an inch wide and vary from a quarter to three quarters of an inch long and are light tan in color. They are usually laid on narrow twigs but can be formed on almost any surface. Twenty to seventy nymphs will hatch after thirty days.(Orin) Females are very prolific and can lay large ooths every two weeks, which hatch 30-100 nymphs after 3-8 weeks. Incubation can be done at room temp with weekly misting. They have limited parthenogenic capability, and females produced via parthenogenesis don't always produce ooths.(agent A) Optional Health Issues: infections or illnesses encountered. Additional Observations: pertinent information which doesn't neatly fit anywhere else. Photos: up to five may be posted at the bottom of the completed template. Please limit these photos to no more than one of an ootheca, two of nymphs(different instars), one of an adult female, and one of an adult male. (photo: OM) Contributors: agent A, Orin
  2. 1 point
    It's chow time! One is demolishing a cricket as we speak. The other will come around. Although I suspect that one is due for a molt since he hasn't in the week I've had him, and the other did within 3 days.
  3. 1 point
    Introduction Hymenopus coronatus, Orchid Mantis The nymphs are spectacular mimics of orchid flowers and look very much like a tiny version of the popular moth orchid flowers seen at various stores. Southeast Asia, most common stock from Malaysia. Difficulty level: intermediate Development Molts take place about every three weeks until the ultimate molt which can take twice as long. Hatchlings are red and black and may mimic certain assassin bugs. Later instars to adult are white to pink. Adults live from three to six months, rarely much longer. Molting rarely encounters problems in captivity despite the leg extensions. Behavior/temperament Nymphs usually stay in one spot to catch prey but will chase after crickets if hungry enough. Neither timid nor aggressive. Propensity to cannibalize is limited; not communal. Dynamics of threat display - none. Captive Environment Temperature range and humidity levels - room temperature to tropical (72-90F). High humidity without adequate ventilation will kill specimens. Type and size of enclosure(s) used - absolute minimum 32oz. for the large females. Substrate or lack thereof- none required. Cage furnishings, e.g. molting surfaces, perches, décor, plants, etc. -may shield prey, not needed. Communal housing if applicable - not a good idea. Feeding Feeding response - moths and flies are most attractive. Type and size of prey used and/or refused for various instars - fruit flies for the early instars, then crickets, cockroaches and flies. Quantity and frequency of feedings - late instar female nymphs can consume large quantities of prey daily. Breeding Sexing/sexual dimorphism - females look similar to the males but are a dozen times more massive. Time needed from last molt to copulation - 3-4 wks. Multiple males are suggested for mating. While rearing up nymphs is basic for anyone with limited experience, getting fertile eggs is expert level. Tips for inducing copulation and fecundity - generally about three oothecae per female. Tips for inducing female to lay oothecae - green/living plant leaves. Oothecae Physical description and average size. - thin and elongate, up to four inches long and a quarter inch wide. Diapause if necessary - none. Incubation time and temperature - approx 40 days at 80F. Observed number/s and range of hatching nymphs - highly variable, avg. ~40