Jump to content
Mantidforum

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/18/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Hosting Caleb's 7th BDay party today. All our mantises dressed to the 9s. πŸ‘ŠπŸ€£
  2. 2 points
    Bellatrix went to the big terrarium in the sky today 😭 She was my favorite Ghost, my lil green bug eating machine. I woke to find her barely hanging from the tulle in her enclosure. I tried to give her some water or honey, but she was pretty far gone and was just striking at things out of instinct. I held her and thanked her for being my friend, then put her in the freezer. R.I.P Bellatrix: you were a special lady and a great mantis She laid 7 oothecca and lived 4 months as an adult ❀️
  3. 2 points
    Well, I thought my orchid gal was subadult because she was L7 and Graceface said that female orchids are adult at L8, but it turns out she molted again (to sub this time) and she is HUGE! Pictures to come.I - MantisGirl13
  4. 2 points
    Just came from work and Mocha is in the middle of molting!! The first ghost molting I've witnessed! She's beautiful!
  5. 2 points
    I caught a female S. carolina last year and she laid an ooth the first day in her enclosure. I didn't expect it to be fertile... but here is goes. 😁 I'm inclined to believe she's from a batch I released earlier that year since we've never seen any in the area before. Who knows. She laid several more before passing, so if anyone needs some carolinas... let me know. πŸ˜„
  6. 1 point
    Wow! I just realized I've been on this forum for a year and four days now! It seems more like five years! - MantisGirl13
  7. 1 point
    Nice to see pupae from a 'new cup' eclosing. To me, this means my process is becoming more reliable. If so, I should see it pop strong this weekend sometime.
  8. 1 point
    If everything goes well, ill have two sexed pairs of i4/i5 orchids next week.
  9. 1 point
    β€œA girl is Arya Stark of Winterfell, and I’m going home.” S VI E VIII
  10. 1 point
    Flies..... Flies everywhere.... πŸ˜ŽπŸ‘
  11. 1 point
    Ahhhh. Remember Lola Religiosa? I'll be taking her ooth out of diapause soon. Hopefully it turns out to be fertile. Even if just a few nymphs drop, my heart will soar! Buncha lil' Lolas scurrying after springtails and melanogasters in a deli cup?! 😍
  12. 1 point
    I am finally starting to enjoy some success with BBFs.
  13. 1 point
    NoΓ«l is calling again. Soon my orchids will be calling too. I sure could use a pair of orchid subadult males. πŸ€”
  14. 1 point
    Wow! I haven't been on the Forum a year yet, and I just reached the Ghost Mantis rank!! 3000 posts! I think I'm on here too much... - MantisGirl13
  15. 1 point
    It's been a little while and I promise I'm still around, just a lot of life things happening at the moment. The ghosts are all doing really well! ButterRum-Verde molted the first week or March into a beautiful green mantis! Her wings are a little lighter than Iris'! Mocha is actually on the verge of a molt! I'm pretty excited for her! She is still a beautiful brown and I believe she will keep this rich deep brown which is a OKAY! Lol I'm hoping for a molt today or tomorrow!
  16. 1 point
    Whenever you hear about alien abductions you often hear about 'things growing in tanks', Doesnt sound like the Extra Terrestrials have improved on the Tank Method
  17. 1 point
    Shortcut to 2019-03-17 02.03.55.lnk
  18. 1 point
    Can't wait till tomorrow! I am going to the Philly Insectarium with a friend of mine. They have mantids!! - MantisGirl13
  19. 1 point
    Introduction Galanthias amoena, African flower mantis This small species nearly reaches 3cm long. It has a very long, skinny thorax. It is dull green with a whitish abdomen. Halfway down the back of the abdomen is a black stripe, not unlike Pseudoharpax virescens. The wings are a light green. Males are skinnier than females. Found in central Africa Difficulty level: beginner Development Nymphs take a while (up to 3 weeks) to molt to L2, however subsequent instars seem shorter (8-10 days). Feeding frequency is more of a factor than temperature. Adulthood can be reached 8-9 weeks after hatching. Males live about 5 weeks after becoming adult, while females live for about 3 months. Both sexes are subadult at L6. Behavior/temperament These insects are active. They run and jump a lot, and young nymphs readily escape. These insects are somewhat shy, particularly in early instars. They seem fairly communal and don't attack particularly large prey (though mated females become more brazen with food size). As long as food is plentiful, aggression is low. I seem to notice later instar nymphs go missing in group housing on occassion, so if you have only a few, it may benefit you to separate them at L5. Generally, though, enough nymphs in a group cage make it to maturity to allow for breeding. Captive Environment Room temperature (64-78F) suffices for these insects. They appreciate twice weekly misting when young, though high humidity isn't needed. They seem fine with paper towel on the bottom of the container, and I usually offer fake plants for climbing. They don't mind heavily planted containers. Since they are small, food storage sized containers with ventilated lids suffice. I usually house adults in 32oz deli cups and groups of young nymphs in 32oz cube containers used for human food. Net cages or tall 5 gallon containers work well for groups of L4 or older nymphs. I use pop-up round butterfly cages for groups of older nymphs. I trim live ragweed and goldenrod, shake off the spiders, and place it within the cages. Nymphs appreciate the perches, and it is not necessary to replenish foliage when it dries out. If you wish to house these individually, 16oz deli cups are large enough for the final molt. Feeding Feeding response: These insects enthusiastically chase prey items. Even tiny adult males eat a few times per week, although I suspect that much like Creobroter, overfed males may have trouble connecting during mating. Type and size of prey used and/or refused for various instars: L1 and L2 can handle D. hydei. I usually feed them hydei through L3 before switching to houseflies or various small syrphid flies and halictid/andrenid bees, depending on the season. I live near a blueberry patch surrounded by netting that traps a banquet of insects between June and October. Syrphid flies are particularly attracted to hydrangea and yarrow flowers. L4 seem a bit small for bottleflies, though subadults eat them without issue. Small bees also work for L4/5 nymphs. Quantity and frequency of feedings: I usually just keep food plentiful. 4 or 5 insects per nymph is good, and when prey disappears I add more. These insects eat quite a bit for their size. Mated females love wild moths and such and eat nonstop. Breeding Sexing/sexual dimorphism: the bottom of the abdomen of males has a few small, blunt segments. The female has a large pointy segment at the end. Depending on your eyesight, this is appearant at L4 onward. As adults, males are narrower and the abdomen is completely concealed by the wings when viewed from above. Time needed from last molt to copulation: 5 or 6 days for males, 8-10 for females Pairing is easy to achieve, particularly when the female is well fed. Simply have the mature male in a good sized cage and add the female near him. The female isn't particularly aggressive and mating usually takes around 3 hours. I mate mine a few times. Mated females need only a few small pieces of fake foliage and a good flow of food to oviposit. Females lay ooths around 3 weeks of age and will deposit one every 5-12 days, depending on how often she is fed. I usually just fatten up females with a variety of moths, flies, and bees. Oothecae: The ooth of this mantis is fairly about the size of a watermelon seed. It is roughly cubical in shape, with ribs down the sides. It is a dark brown color, although fresh ooths are tan. Incubation at room temp with regular (2-3 times weekly) misting suffices. About 6 weeks later, 10-15 nymphs will hatch. Text and photo submitted by mantisloverguy6000
  20. 1 point
    Gongylus gongylodes (Violin Mantis) Introduction: Gongylus gongylodes is a mantis in the Empusidae family. They are native to India, Java, Myanmar, Sri Lanka and Thailand. Adults reach about 4-4Β½ in total length, males being on the smaller side.(brancsikia339) Their much rarer relative, Gongylus trachelophyllus, occurs only in India, and it seems that these don't exist in culture as of now.(brancsikia339) They go by many common names so it is best not to trust these (Other than violin mantis, its most common name): violin mantis, wandering violin mantis, wandering rose mantis, dead leaf mantis, stick mantis, Indian rose mantis, rose mantis, Indian violin mantis, and ornate mantis. This species has an array of common names.(brancsikia339) All in all, Gongylus gongylodes is an incredible species, though not for the novice.(brancsikia339) Physical description/appearance, i.e. size, color, shape, crypsis, etc. Development: Rate of growth and factors involvedLongevity Molting observationsBehavior/temperament: Degree of activityDegree of aggression or timidityPropensity to cannibalizeDynamics of threat displayCaptive Environment: They need a lot of twigs and branches to molt on. They also need high temps, up to the mid 90's and down to the low 80's to molt properly.(brancsikia339) I've kept this species many times, and I found that the hotter the better within reason. They did best in net cages with a heat lamp above the enclosure. I misted daily.(Rick) I never had any trouble keeping them communally but it may be best to keep males and female adults separate except for breeding purposes.(Rick) As all Empusids, this species cannot climb smooth surfaces and should get mesh or twigs to hang from. Temperatures should be about 80 for nymphs, and about 95 for adult males before breeding. Humidity needs only to be at 40-50%.(agent A) Type and size of enclosure(s) used.Substrate or lack thereofCage furnishings, e.g. molting surfaces, perches, dΓ©cor, plants, etc.Feeding: They feed exclusively on flying food, but have been known to eat crickets. This can have adverse side effects, however.(brancsikia339) L1's through L3's for me were fed on mostly melanogasters and hydeis. From L4 on, they were fed mostly houseflies until some higher molts, in which they will accept BB's. They will also accept treats such as moths, butterflies, wasps and bees. (Bees not recommended because of rarity, and wasps can be dangerous to the mantids).(brancsikia339) These mantids prefer flying food and I raised them on flies. Start out with hydei fruit flies and transition them to houseflies followed by bluebottle flies. They do enjoy other flying insects such as moths.(Rick) Breeding: Males are volitable(able to fly) and females have short wings.(brancsikia339) This species is tricky to breed because males need high temps to mate, but an easy way to eggbind a female is overexposure to high temperatures. Keep the male in a hot, humid cage for a few days in a separate room (95F, 60-70%), then one evening introduce the female. Connection can still occur at room temp but the male needs high temps beforehand to make it work.(agent A) I incubate the ooths at 93f during the day and drop to 86f at night. I mist the container every other day one light mist. My temps are from a incubator so they don't fluctuate and have near perfect hatches in 4 to 6 weeks.(jrh3) Sexing/sexual dimorphism (explanation of physical differences and/or adult sizes of the sexes)Time needed from last molt to copulationTips: give us your methodology.Tips for inducing copulation and fecundityTips for inducing female to lay oothecaeOothecae: Ooths of gongylus are very peculiar, being spiky all around with a large protrustion on the front.(brancsikia339) Physical description and average size. Picture desired; include with other pictures at bottom of Care Sheet.Diapause if necessaryIncubation time and temperatureObserved number/s and range of hatching nymphsOptional Health Issues: infections or illnesses encountered.Additional Observations: pertinent information which doesn't neatly fit anywhere else.Photos: up to five may be posted at the bottom of the completed template. Please limit these photos to no more than one of an ootheca, two of nymphs(different instars), one of an adult female, and one of an adult male. (photo: jrh3) (photo: jrh3) Contributors: agent A, brancsikia339, jamurfjr, jrh3, Rick
Γ—