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Orin last won the day on October 26 2017

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    Unicorn Mantis

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  1. What is the best way to make Hierodula adult females lay oothecae? And do you know what those black markings are?


  2. I would like to post in mantis for sale wanted etc. I do not see a link to create new post and i did introduce myself

  3. Miomantis binotata Giglio-Tos 1911 (Submitted by Mantis Monarch, photos by Mantis Monarch) Introduction Common name: African Pinstripe Mantis, comes from the adult female's white stripes on their green wings. Also may be named that because as nymphs they have red pinstripes running down their abdomen and across knees that widen and double as they get older. Physical description: mostly green with red and white accents. Brown color morphs exist but even brown adult females have green wings. L1 black, L2 pale green w/ white and red banded legs, L3 5/16" same but gain red racing stripes, L4 1/2" same but gain black dots under abdomen, L5 same but green and pale green tiger stripes appear, L6 and L7 ~1" adult females have short green with white stripes wings and short green antenna, adult males have long transparent green wings with long red antenna. Distribution: Africa; Kenya, Malawi, Rwanda, Tanzania, Togo, Burundi, Musina, South Africa Small Species: adults grow no larger than 1.25" Difficult level: rearing beginner, breeding advanced Development Growth rate: L1 to adult can be achieved in 2 months at 80-90F w/ feeding everyday 72-80F and feeding once every 2-4 days will slow growth rate without problems Longevity: adult male will last 2-3 months (4 max) adult female will last 2-6 months depending on temperature and feeding schedule. Molting observations: can molt to adult in a 16oz deli or bigger. No problem with molting with humidity 50-80%. Behavior/Temperment From hatch/L1 these nymphs are curious and friendly they remain very sweet and handleable all the way to adult Degree of aggressiveness: high, especially in females. Will go after food and other nymphs. Propensity to cannibalize: high, nymphs don't mind eating other nymphs. Female cannibalized males over 60% of time in captivity. Captive Environment Temperature: 75-85F Night >68 used Temperature Range is 68-90F Humidity: 45-80% very tolerant (adult males need water to drink everyday) Enclosure Used: 5.5oz Suffle cup, 16oz deli and 32oz deli cup OR SM/MED hex and SM kritter keeper for breeding. Substrate Used: paper towel, Eco-Earth, Moss Cage Furnishings: mesh netting, plastic plants, skewers, popsicle sticks. Breeding enclosure needs lots of green plants for the male to hide in. Not Communal: separate as soon as possible. High degree of cannibalization. Feeding L1 can prey on Mel. Fruit Flies Adult males can eat: Hydei fruit flies, false stable fly, small house fly, or insect segment Adult females can eat: Blue Bottle Flies, House Flies, mealworms, superworm segment, or other insect segment. Breeding Sexing/sexual dimorphism: Sex ID Adult Males: have transparent green wing that are longer than abdomen, long slender body, very long red antenna Sex ID Adult Female: have green wings with white stripes that are shorter than abdomen after first meal, fatter abdomen that sticks out the sides of wings, short green antenna. Time needed from last molt to copulation: depends on temperature, at 75-80F Males are ready in 2 weeks, Adult females are ready in 4-6 weeks. I wait until after female has laid 1st infertile ootheca before mating to ensure readiness. Tips: methodology: Bring both male and female up to Day 80F Night 75F before trying. Feed female every day for a few days before trying. Place both in a SM Hex or SM Kritter Keeper with lots of house flies flying around in the evening. The flies are a distraction for the female so the male can do his job. Male will most likely be cannibalized, if he copulates or not. Tips for inducing copulation and fecundity: temperature and flying insects Tips for inducing female to lay oothecae: she will lay on netting, plastic, artificial plants, insect lid, and sticks. They are not picky about where they lay. Sometimes infertile ooths are laid on the moss substrate. Ootheca Small tan semi-hard ooth. No bigger than 1/2" Diapause NOT needed Incubation: 28-40 days at 75-80F w/ 60-80% humidity or mist everyday. Observed Hatch Rate: 10-35 nymphs M.binotata L1 nymph
  4. Can people who aren't moderators see your posts on the moderator forum on your activity page?

  5. Private message?


  6. Introduction Hymenopus coronatus, Orchid Mantis The nymphs are spectacular mimics of orchid flowers and look very much like a tiny version of the popular moth orchid flowers seen at various stores. Southeast Asia, most common stock from Malaysia. Difficulty level: intermediate Development Molts take place about every three weeks until the ultimate molt which can take twice as long. Hatchlings are red and black and may mimic certain assassin bugs. Later instars to adult are white to pink. Adults live from three to six months, rarely much longer. Molting rarely encounters problems in captivity despite the leg extensions. Behavior/temperament Nymphs usually stay in one spot to catch prey but will chase after crickets if hungry enough. Neither timid nor aggressive. Propensity to cannibalize is limited; not communal. Dynamics of threat display - none. Captive Environment Temperature range and humidity levels - room temperature to tropical (72-90F). High humidity without adequate ventilation will kill specimens. Type and size of enclosure(s) used - absolute minimum 32oz. for the large females. Substrate or lack thereof- none required. Cage furnishings, e.g. molting surfaces, perches, décor, plants, etc. -may shield prey, not needed. Communal housing if applicable - not a good idea. Feeding Feeding response - moths and flies are most attractive. Type and size of prey used and/or refused for various instars - fruit flies for the early instars, then crickets, cockroaches and flies. Quantity and frequency of feedings - late instar female nymphs can consume large quantities of prey daily. Breeding Sexing/sexual dimorphism - females look similar to the males but are a dozen times more massive. Time needed from last molt to copulation - 3-4 wks. Multiple males are suggested for mating. While rearing up nymphs is basic for anyone with limited experience, getting fertile eggs is expert level. Tips for inducing copulation and fecundity - generally about three oothecae per female. Tips for inducing female to lay oothecae - green/living plant leaves. Oothecae Physical description and average size. - thin and elongate, up to four inches long and a quarter inch wide. Diapause if necessary - none. Incubation time and temperature - approx 40 days at 80F. Observed number/s and range of hatching nymphs - highly variable, avg. ~40
  7. Ten years of the forum Dec. 10, 2014

    1. CosbyArt


      Congratulations, that is quite a feat! Especially as many people abandon most hobbies themselves after a year or two - much less help others in the hobby for that period of time too. Well done sir!

  8. Orin

    Screenshot 2014 07 21 23 28 22

    Watch out for an infection.
  9. I think templates in caresheets tend to force a bit of untested, untrue info such as Temps 27F daytime, 20F nighttime Humidity 45-55% I understand some people prefer the illusion of false facts to the reality of factual husbandry parameters. Rick: "this is a cool mantis" is subjective but "people keep this mantis because....." is not subjective most of the time unless it ends with your first statement.
  10. I was thinking each thread would be somewhat like the consolidated species threads but without banter and off topic chat so there wouldn't be so much junk to sift through but would still represent varying experiences of successful breeders. Also, hopefully there would be minimal debate. Each person may have their own opinion on the optimal prey, temperature, and humidity and not have the entire picture.
  11. If a caresheet or update contains major grammatical, punctuation, and capitalization errors it will likely be deleted rather than fixed.
  12. Personal experience is welcome but there should be zero discussion beyond that necessary for a caresheet. It may be a little difficult to quantify banter but all threads will be locked and submissions will have to be sent by PM if it proves too difficult.
  13. The idea here is to offer species specific information for every mantis in culture that can be searched without having to wade through mounds of banter. Each species will have one thread. If a new thread is made for a species already listed it will be deleted without prejudice as soon as it is noticed. Modifications and additions to present caresheets are very welcome but DO NOT post discussion or comments. Warn points will be assigned for any unrelated discussion. PLEASE do not make it necessary to lock every thread. Limited photos are welcome. Please only post your own experiences. Please do not post a caresheet for a species you haven't kept at least through a second generation.
  14. Deroplatys desiccata (Giant Deadleaf Mantis) Introduction: As the common name denotes, D. desiccata seems to disappear among a pile of dead leaves. Deroplatys may not be the most extravagant of the deadleaf mimics, but they are the biggest and possess the most intimidating threat displays. This species grows much larger than other Deroplatys that have been kept thus far though some stocks or specimens may average small. Adults are bulky and can exceed three inches in length.(Orin) Development: Females live up to a year following maturity.(Orin) The adult molt can be dangerous for the gigantic female if the container is too small or there are sticks in the way.(Orin) Rate of growth and factors involved Longevity Molting observations Behavior/temperament: Deadleaf mantids are hearty feeders but rarely attack others of the same size.(Orin) While dessicata will absolutely use vertical space in a terrarium, they can often be found mere inches above the substrate, resting face down on branches waiting for prey to come near. Truly exceptional camouflage helps them to disappear amongst dead leaves and bark.(frogparty) Degree of activity Degree of aggression or timidity Propensity to cannibalize Dynamics of threat display Captive Environment: The adult molt can be dangerous for the gigantic female if the container is too small or there are sticks in the way.(Orin) Temperature range and humidity levels Type and size of enclosure(s) used. Substrate or lack thereof Cage furnishings, e.g. molting surfaces, perches, décor, plants, etc. Communal housing if applicable Feeding: Deadleaf mantids are hearty feeders but rarely attack others of the same size.(Orin) Hatchlings are huge and take the large D. hydei or L1 Schultesia readily.(Orin) Prey preference is extremely broad, and flying prey, crickets, roaches etc are all relished greatly. A good varied diet for this species could include dubia roaches, crickets, silkworms, large moths, waxworms.(frogparty) I have noticed that Deroplatys do well when given large prey items more infrequently, rather than a myriad of small prey many times a week.(frogparty) Breeding: The females pronotum is about one and a half times longer than wide with downward pointed sides while the males is rounded. Males are nearly as long as females but are less massive. Sexual dimorphism is difficult to identify on hatchlings but blatant after a few molts.(Orin) Mating is the only real challenge with this species. The females seldom eat the males but the problem is males rarely show interest and hand mating is realistically impossible. The mating terrarium can include a 60-watt incandescent light directly over one spot to increase temperature which may help the males become lively.(Orin) Oothecae: Each female normally produces three to five oothecae that are stocky and an inch wide by 3/4 to an inch long. Females live up to a year following maturity and can be alive when their offspring mature but rarely form good oothecae after the first five months. Oothecae contain around 30-40. The gestation period varies greatly under similar conditions so don't give up on an ootheca until it has been at least two full months.(Orin) Optional: Health Issues: infections or illnesses encountered. Additional Observations: pertinent information which doesn't neatly fit anywhere else. Photos: up to five may be posted at the bottom of the completed template. Please limit these photos to no more than one of an ootheca, two of nymphs(different instars), one of an adult female, and one of an adult male. Contributors: frogparty, jamurfjr, Orin
  15. Phyllovates chlorophaea (Texas Unicorn Mantis) Introduction: This handsome species is among our largest and bulkiest mantids; females can exceed two and three quarters inches. Despite visible differences, our two unicorn species are similar even down to the angle of the markings on the tegmina. Phyllovates chlorophaea does not have notable lobes on the legs and abdomen.(Orin) All captive stock of this species originated from Brownsville, Texas. However, the species ranges south to northern South America so it is sometimes listed as "Mexican", "Central, or South American" Unicorn.(Orin) Difficulty: intermediate—advanced. Development: Nymphs are sturdy and can take a lot of abuse but can suffer from mismolts in the final instar with improper molting surfaces or lack of moisture.(Orin) VERY slow to molt. Takes quite a while to get to adult.(brancsikia339) Longevity Behavior/temperament: They love to try to get out of their containers and explore. Calm when inside cage, very active outside.(brancsikia339) Immatures that hatch at the same time can be reared together with few to no losses.(Orin) Degree of aggression or timidityDynamics of threat displayCaptive Environment: Immatures that hatch at the same time can be reared together with few to no losses. Nymphs are sturdy and can take a lot of abuse but can suffer from mismolts in the final instar with improper molting surfaces or lack of moisture.(Orin) Temperature range and humidity levelsType and size of enclosure(s) used.Substrate or lack thereofCage furnishings, e.g. molting surfaces, perches, décor, plants, etc.Feeding: Female are good eaters, will eat just about anything.(brancsikia339) Type and size of prey used and/or refused for various instarsQuantity and frequency of feedingsBreeding: Male flighted.(brancsikia339) If you look closely at antennae, you can see the males' is a bit feathery.(brancsikia339) A number of males and females should be kept to ensure future generations because successful mating is a challenge. While nymphs rarely bother each other, males are less often safe from females so they are not kept together except for mating. Successful copulation is more likely if there’s more than one male in the cage and the ambient temperature is 80-85F.(Orin) Sexing/sexual dimorphism (explanation of physical differences and/or adult sizes of the sexes)Time needed from last molt to copulationTips: give us your methodology.Tips for inducing copulation and fecundityTips for inducing female to lay oothecaeOothecae: As many as ten oothecae can be created though four or five good oothecae is common. They average fifty hatchlings per ootheca.(Orin) Diapause not needed on ooths.(brancsikia339) Physical description and average size. Picture desired; include with other pictures at bottom of Care Sheet.Incubation time and temperatureOptional Health Issues: infections or illnesses encountered.Additional Observations: pertinent information which doesn't neatly fit anywhere else.Photos: up to five may be posted at the bottom of the completed template. Please limit these photos to no more than one of an ootheca, two of nymphs(different instars), one of an adult female, and one of an adult male. (photo: SilentDevil) (photo: SilentDevil) (photo: brancsikia339) Contributors: agent A, brancsikia339, jamurfjr, Orin, SilentDevil