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Orin last won the day on December 29 2020

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Unicorn Mantis

Unicorn Mantis (11/17)



  1. Introduction Galanthias amoena, African flower mantis This small species nearly reaches 3cm long. It has a very long, skinny thorax. It is dull green with a whitish abdomen. Halfway down the back of the abdomen is a black stripe, not unlike Pseudoharpax virescens. The wings are a light green. Males are skinnier than females. Found in central Africa Difficulty level: beginner Development Nymphs take a while (up to 3 weeks) to molt to L2, however subsequent instars seem shorter (8-10 days). Feeding frequency is more of a factor than temperature. Adulthood can be reached 8-9 weeks after hatching. Males live about 5 weeks after becoming adult, while females live for about 3 months. Both sexes are subadult at L6. Behavior/temperament These insects are active. They run and jump a lot, and young nymphs readily escape. These insects are somewhat shy, particularly in early instars. They seem fairly communal and don't attack particularly large prey (though mated females become more brazen with food size). As long as food is plentiful, aggression is low. I seem to notice later instar nymphs go missing in group housing on occassion, so if you have only a few, it may benefit you to separate them at L5. Generally, though, enough nymphs in a group cage make it to maturity to allow for breeding. Captive Environment Room temperature (64-78F) suffices for these insects. They appreciate twice weekly misting when young, though high humidity isn't needed. They seem fine with paper towel on the bottom of the container, and I usually offer fake plants for climbing. They don't mind heavily planted containers. Since they are small, food storage sized containers with ventilated lids suffice. I usually house adults in 32oz deli cups and groups of young nymphs in 32oz cube containers used for human food. Net cages or tall 5 gallon containers work well for groups of L4 or older nymphs. I use pop-up round butterfly cages for groups of older nymphs. I trim live ragweed and goldenrod, shake off the spiders, and place it within the cages. Nymphs appreciate the perches, and it is not necessary to replenish foliage when it dries out. If you wish to house these individually, 16oz deli cups are large enough for the final molt. Feeding Feeding response: These insects enthusiastically chase prey items. Even tiny adult males eat a few times per week, although I suspect that much like Creobroter, overfed males may have trouble connecting during mating. Type and size of prey used and/or refused for various instars: L1 and L2 can handle D. hydei. I usually feed them hydei through L3 before switching to houseflies or various small syrphid flies and halictid/andrenid bees, depending on the season. I live near a blueberry patch surrounded by netting that traps a banquet of insects between June and October. Syrphid flies are particularly attracted to hydrangea and yarrow flowers. L4 seem a bit small for bottleflies, though subadults eat them without issue. Small bees also work for L4/5 nymphs. Quantity and frequency of feedings: I usually just keep food plentiful. 4 or 5 insects per nymph is good, and when prey disappears I add more. These insects eat quite a bit for their size. Mated females love wild moths and such and eat nonstop. Breeding Sexing/sexual dimorphism: the bottom of the abdomen of males has a few small, blunt segments. The female has a large pointy segment at the end. Depending on your eyesight, this is appearant at L4 onward. As adults, males are narrower and the abdomen is completely concealed by the wings when viewed from above. Time needed from last molt to copulation: 5 or 6 days for males, 8-10 for females Pairing is easy to achieve, particularly when the female is well fed. Simply have the mature male in a good sized cage and add the female near him. The female isn't particularly aggressive and mating usually takes around 3 hours. I mate mine a few times. Mated females need only a few small pieces of fake foliage and a good flow of food to oviposit. Females lay ooths around 3 weeks of age and will deposit one every 5-12 days, depending on how often she is fed. I usually just fatten up females with a variety of moths, flies, and bees. Oothecae: The ooth of this mantis is fairly about the size of a watermelon seed. It is roughly cubical in shape, with ribs down the sides. It is a dark brown color, although fresh ooths are tan. Incubation at room temp with regular (2-3 times weekly) misting suffices. About 6 weeks later, 10-15 nymphs will hatch. Text and photo submitted by mantisloverguy6000
  2. What is the best way to make Hierodula adult females lay oothecae? And do you know what those black markings are?


  3. I would like to post in mantis for sale wanted etc. I do not see a link to create new post and i did introduce myself

  4. Miomantis binotata Giglio-Tos 1911 (Submitted by Mantis Monarch, photos by Mantis Monarch) Introduction Common name: African Pinstripe Mantis, comes from the adult female's white stripes on their green wings. Also may be named that because as nymphs they have red pinstripes running down their abdomen and across knees that widen and double as they get older. Physical description: mostly green with red and white accents. Brown color morphs exist but even brown adult females have green wings. L1 black, L2 pale green w/ white and red banded legs, L3 5/16" same but gain red racing stripes, L4 1/2" same but gain black dots under abdomen, L5 same but green and pale green tiger stripes appear, L6 and L7 ~1" adult females have short green with white stripes wings and short green antenna, adult males have long transparent green wings with long red antenna. Distribution: Africa; Kenya, Malawi, Rwanda, Tanzania, Togo, Burundi, Musina, South Africa Small Species: adults grow no larger than 1.25" Difficult level: rearing beginner, breeding advanced Development Growth rate: L1 to adult can be achieved in 2 months at 80-90F w/ feeding everyday 72-80F and feeding once every 2-4 days will slow growth rate without problems Longevity: adult male will last 2-3 months (4 max) adult female will last 2-6 months depending on temperature and feeding schedule. Molting observations: can molt to adult in a 16oz deli or bigger. No problem with molting with humidity 50-80%. Behavior/Temperment From hatch/L1 these nymphs are curious and friendly they remain very sweet and handleable all the way to adult Degree of aggressiveness: high, especially in females. Will go after food and other nymphs. Propensity to cannibalize: high, nymphs don't mind eating other nymphs. Female cannibalized males over 60% of time in captivity. Captive Environment Temperature: 75-85F Night >68 used Temperature Range is 68-90F Humidity: 45-80% very tolerant (adult males need water to drink everyday) Enclosure Used: 5.5oz Suffle cup, 16oz deli and 32oz deli cup OR SM/MED hex and SM kritter keeper for breeding. Substrate Used: paper towel, Eco-Earth, Moss Cage Furnishings: mesh netting, plastic plants, skewers, popsicle sticks. Breeding enclosure needs lots of green plants for the male to hide in. Not Communal: separate as soon as possible. High degree of cannibalization. Feeding L1 can prey on Mel. Fruit Flies Adult males can eat: Hydei fruit flies, false stable fly, small house fly, or insect segment Adult females can eat: Blue Bottle Flies, House Flies, mealworms, superworm segment, or other insect segment. Breeding Sexing/sexual dimorphism: Sex ID Adult Males: have transparent green wing that are longer than abdomen, long slender body, very long red antenna Sex ID Adult Female: have green wings with white stripes that are shorter than abdomen after first meal, fatter abdomen that sticks out the sides of wings, short green antenna. Time needed from last molt to copulation: depends on temperature, at 75-80F Males are ready in 2 weeks, Adult females are ready in 4-6 weeks. I wait until after female has laid 1st infertile ootheca before mating to ensure readiness. Tips: methodology: Bring both male and female up to Day 80F Night 75F before trying. Feed female every day for a few days before trying. Place both in a SM Hex or SM Kritter Keeper with lots of house flies flying around in the evening. The flies are a distraction for the female so the male can do his job. Male will most likely be cannibalized, if he copulates or not. Tips for inducing copulation and fecundity: temperature and flying insects Tips for inducing female to lay oothecae: she will lay on netting, plastic, artificial plants, insect lid, and sticks. They are not picky about where they lay. Sometimes infertile ooths are laid on the moss substrate. Ootheca Small tan semi-hard ooth. No bigger than 1/2" Diapause NOT needed Incubation: 28-40 days at 75-80F w/ 60-80% humidity or mist everyday. Observed Hatch Rate: 10-35 nymphs M.binotata L1 nymph
  5. Can people who aren't moderators see your posts on the moderator forum on your activity page?

  6. Private message?


  7. Introduction Hymenopus coronatus, Orchid Mantis The nymphs are spectacular mimics of orchid flowers and look very much like a tiny version of the popular moth orchid flowers seen at various stores. Southeast Asia, most common stock from Malaysia. Difficulty level: intermediate Development Molts take place about every three weeks until the ultimate molt which can take twice as long. Hatchlings are red and black and may mimic certain assassin bugs. Later instars to adult are white to pink. Adults live from three to six months, rarely much longer. Molting rarely encounters problems in captivity despite the leg extensions. Behavior/temperament Nymphs usually stay in one spot to catch prey but will chase after crickets if hungry enough. Neither timid nor aggressive. Propensity to cannibalize is limited; not communal. Dynamics of threat display - none. Captive Environment Temperature range and humidity levels - room temperature to tropical (72-90F). High humidity without adequate ventilation will kill specimens. Type and size of enclosure(s) used - absolute minimum 32oz. for the large females. Substrate or lack thereof- none required. Cage furnishings, e.g. molting surfaces, perches, décor, plants, etc. -may shield prey, not needed. Communal housing if applicable - not a good idea. Feeding Feeding response - moths and flies are most attractive. Type and size of prey used and/or refused for various instars - fruit flies for the early instars, then crickets, cockroaches and flies. Quantity and frequency of feedings - late instar female nymphs can consume large quantities of prey daily. Breeding Sexing/sexual dimorphism - females look similar to the males but are a dozen times more massive. Time needed from last molt to copulation - 3-4 wks. Multiple males are suggested for mating. While rearing up nymphs is basic for anyone with limited experience, getting fertile eggs is expert level. Tips for inducing copulation and fecundity - Multiple males in a flight cage and warm temperatures. Fertile or not there are generally three oothecae per female. Tips for inducing female to lay oothecae - green/living plant leaves. Oothecae Physical description and average size. - thin and elongate, up to four inches long and a quarter inch wide. Diapause if necessary - none. Incubation time and temperature - approximately 40 days at 80F. Observed number/s and range of hatching nymphs - highly variable, avg. ~40
  8. Ten years of the forum Dec. 10, 2014

    1. CosbyArt


      Congratulations, that is quite a feat! Especially as many people abandon most hobbies themselves after a year or two - much less help others in the hobby for that period of time too. Well done sir!

  9. I think templates in caresheets tend to force a bit of untested, untrue info such as Temps 27F daytime, 20F nighttime Humidity 45-55% I understand some people prefer the illusion of false facts to the reality of factual husbandry parameters. Rick: "this is a cool mantis" is subjective but "people keep this mantis because....." is not subjective most of the time unless it ends with your first statement.
  10. I was thinking each thread would be somewhat like the consolidated species threads but without banter and off topic chat so there wouldn't be so much junk to sift through but would still represent varying experiences of successful breeders. Also, hopefully there would be minimal debate. Each person may have their own opinion on the optimal prey, temperature, and humidity and not have the entire picture.
  11. If a caresheet or update contains major grammatical, punctuation, and capitalization errors it will likely be deleted rather than fixed.
  12. Personal experience is welcome but there should be zero discussion beyond that necessary for a caresheet. It may be a little difficult to quantify banter but all threads will be locked and submissions will have to be sent by PM if it proves too difficult.
  13. The idea here is to offer species specific information for every mantis in culture that can be searched without having to wade through mounds of banter. Each species will have one thread. If a new thread is made for a species already listed it will be deleted without prejudice as soon as it is noticed. Modifications and additions to present caresheets are very welcome but DO NOT post discussion or comments. Warn points will be assigned for any unrelated discussion. PLEASE do not make it necessary to lock every thread. Limited photos are welcome. Please only post your own experiences. Please do not post a caresheet for a species you haven't kept at least through a second generation.
  14. Deroplatys desiccata (Giant Deadleaf Mantis) Introduction: As the common name denotes, D. desiccata seems to disappear among a pile of dead leaves. Deroplatys may not be the most extravagant of the deadleaf mimics, but they are the biggest and possess the most intimidating threat displays. This species grows much larger than other Deroplatys that have been kept thus far though some stocks or specimens may average small. Adults are bulky and can exceed three inches in length.(Orin) Development: Females live up to a year following maturity.(Orin) The adult molt can be dangerous for the gigantic female if the container is too small or there are sticks in the way.(Orin) Rate of growth and factors involved Longevity Molting observations Behavior/temperament: Deadleaf mantids are hearty feeders but rarely attack others of the same size.(Orin) While dessicata will absolutely use vertical space in a terrarium, they can often be found mere inches above the substrate, resting face down on branches waiting for prey to come near. Truly exceptional camouflage helps them to disappear amongst dead leaves and bark.(frogparty) Degree of activity Degree of aggression or timidity Propensity to cannibalize Dynamics of threat display Captive Environment: The adult molt can be dangerous for the gigantic female if the container is too small or there are sticks in the way.(Orin) Temperature range and humidity levels Type and size of enclosure(s) used. Substrate or lack thereof Cage furnishings, e.g. molting surfaces, perches, décor, plants, etc. Communal housing if applicable Feeding: Deadleaf mantids are hearty feeders but rarely attack others of the same size.(Orin) Hatchlings are huge and take the large D. hydei or L1 Schultesia readily.(Orin) Prey preference is extremely broad, and flying prey, crickets, roaches etc are all relished greatly. A good varied diet for this species could include dubia roaches, crickets, silkworms, large moths, waxworms.(frogparty) I have noticed that Deroplatys do well when given large prey items more infrequently, rather than a myriad of small prey many times a week.(frogparty) Breeding: The females pronotum is about one and a half times longer than wide with downward pointed sides while the males is rounded. Males are nearly as long as females but are less massive. Sexual dimorphism is difficult to identify on hatchlings but blatant after a few molts.(Orin) Mating is the only real challenge with this species. The females seldom eat the males but the problem is males rarely show interest and hand mating is realistically impossible. The mating terrarium can include a 60-watt incandescent light directly over one spot to increase temperature which may help the males become lively.(Orin) Oothecae: Each female normally produces three to five oothecae that are stocky and an inch wide by 3/4 to an inch long. Females live up to a year following maturity and can be alive when their offspring mature but rarely form good oothecae after the first five months. Oothecae contain around 30-40. The gestation period varies greatly under similar conditions so don't give up on an ootheca until it has been at least two full months.(Orin) Optional: Health Issues: infections or illnesses encountered. Additional Observations: pertinent information which doesn't neatly fit anywhere else. Photos: up to five may be posted at the bottom of the completed template. Please limit these photos to no more than one of an ootheca, two of nymphs(different instars), one of an adult female, and one of an adult male. Contributors: frogparty, jamurfjr, Orin
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