Popular Post Orin 189 Posted October 11, 2014 Popular Post Share Posted October 11, 2014 Introduction Hymenopus coronatus, Orchid Mantis The nymphs are spectacular mimics of orchid flowers and look very much like a tiny version of the popular moth orchid flowers seen at various stores. Southeast Asia, most common stock from Malaysia. Difficulty level: intermediate Development Molts take place about every three weeks until the ultimate molt which can take twice as long. Hatchlings are red and black and may mimic certain assassin bugs. Later instars to adult are white to pink. Adults live from three to six months, rarely much longer. Molting rarely encounters problems in captivity despite the leg extensions. Behavior/temperament Nymphs usually stay in one spot to catch prey but will chase after crickets if hungry enough. Neither timid nor aggressive. Propensity to cannibalize is limited; not communal. Dynamics of threat display - none. Captive Environment Temperature range and humidity levels - room temperature to tropical (72-90F). High humidity without adequate ventilation will kill specimens. Type and size of enclosure(s) used - absolute minimum 32oz. for the large females. Substrate or lack thereof- none required. Cage furnishings, e.g. molting surfaces, perches, décor, plants, etc. -may shield prey, not needed. Communal housing if applicable - not a good idea. Feeding Feeding response - moths and flies are most attractive. Type and size of prey used and/or refused for various instars - fruit flies for the early instars, then crickets, cockroaches and flies. Quantity and frequency of feedings - late instar female nymphs can consume large quantities of prey daily. Breeding Sexing/sexual dimorphism - females look similar to the males but are a dozen times more massive. Time needed from last molt to copulation - 3-4 wks. Multiple males are suggested for mating. While rearing up nymphs is basic for anyone with limited experience, getting fertile eggs is expert level. Tips for inducing copulation and fecundity - Multiple males in a flight cage and warm temperatures. Fertile or not there are generally three oothecae per female. Tips for inducing female to lay oothecae - green/living plant leaves. Oothecae Physical description and average size. - thin and elongate, up to four inches long and a quarter inch wide. Diapause if necessary - none. Incubation time and temperature - approximately 40 days at 80F. Observed number/s and range of hatching nymphs - highly variable, avg. ~40 3 11 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MrGhostMantis 280 Posted November 27, 2019 Share Posted November 27, 2019 I found this very helpful! Thanks for posting it! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sinisterskyy 0 Posted November 22, 2020 Share Posted November 22, 2020 I have an L2 nymph. Im having just a little trouble with the humidity in her little enclosure. im airing it out at the moment. I have the coconut fiber substrate as well as branch, bark, and moss. with the live plants as well. I just need to know how it should look on the inside. im scared I have too much moisture in the substrate but not sure how to identify it. I don't want any bacteria to have a chance to grow? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rango100 1 Posted November 28, 2020 Share Posted November 28, 2020 When sprayed a bit of condensation is good but should go within a few hours. Don't over do it due to bacteria. Young nymphs like it a little bit drier anyway. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MrGhostMantis 280 Posted November 28, 2020 Share Posted November 28, 2020 Yeah, maybe mist lightly once a day. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mantid-Tim 52 Posted November 29, 2020 Share Posted November 29, 2020 7 hours ago, Rango100 said: When sprayed a bit of condensation is good but should go within a few hours. Don't over do it due to bacteria. Young nymphs like it a little bit drier anyway. 2nd that. Its kind of a good test. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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