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Creobroter spp. (Flower Mantis)

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Creobroter spp. ([Various] Flower Mantis)

Introduction:

Creobroter apicalis—Yunnan Flower Mantis

Creobroter elongates—Thai Flower mantis

Creobroter gemmatus—Jeweled Flower Mantis

Creoboter meleagris

Creobroter nebulosus—Chinese Flower Mantis

Creobroter pictipennis—Indian Flower Mantis

Creoboter urbanis

The Creobroter genus is an extremely popular genus, with stock seeming to magically appear from nowhere. These very nice looking flower mantises are very easy to care for, and their somewhat exotic look makes them a perfect beginner species. Don't let their size fool you, these are VICIOUS insects that will eat almost anything and thrive under almost any conditions.(agent A)

  • Scientific and common name
  • Physical description/appearance, i.e. size, color, shape, crypsis, etc.
  • Native range
  • Difficulty level: beginner, intermediate, advanced, or expert

Development:

At higher temps (above 80), adulthood can be accomplished in less than 3 months, but even at room temp, these reach adulthood in less than 5 months.(agent A)

At L1, these nymphs resemble red ants and can be kept together for a good portion of the nymphal stage.(agent A)

Even when kept at room temperature, the first molt takes just 10-14 days.(agent A)

  • Longevity
  • Molting observations

Behavior/temperament:

  • Degree of activity
  • Degree of aggression or timidity
  • Propensity to cannibalize
  • Dynamics of threat display

Captive Environment:

Any temperature between 70 and 90 is acceptable for this species, and humidity need not be higher than 50% or so, but they do appreciate frequent mistings when younger to help prevent mismolts. This is an aggressive species, and even if well fed, nymphs may still cannibalize; so by L5 should be separated into smaller groups or individual housing. (agent A)

L1 nymphs need plenty of room and hiding spots and gentle daily misting.(agent A)

  • Temperature range and humidity levels
  • Type and size of enclosure(s) used.
  • Substrate or lack thereof
  • Cage furnishings, e.g. molting surfaces, perches, décor, plants, etc.
  • Communal housing if applicable

Feeding:

L1 nymphs of most Creobroter species (except gemmatus and urbanus) can handle hydei, the 2 smaller ones are better started off on melanogaster.(agent A)

Houseflies can be accepted at L3, and some individuals can eat bottleflies at L4; all will accept bottleflies at L5. Presub and older nymphs can eat roaches, bees, flies, moths and spiders. Crickets can be used as long as they are properly cared for and the mantis is well hydrated, since crickets seem to make creobroter become constipated.(agent A)

  • Feeding response
  • Type and size of prey used and/or refused for various instars
  • Quantity and frequency of feedings

Breeding:

Breeding is easy with this species, and they are extremely prolific. However, I have noticed inbreeding can cause the females to be more vicious and unwilling to mate. Unfortunately, since the genus Creobroter is so taxonomically messed up, the only way to ensure you are not hybridizing is to breed individuals from the same stock, which is why inbreeding occurs. Females molt seven times, males molt six times. Nymphs can be sexed as early as L4; in contrast to the smooth end of the male's abdomen, when viewed laterally, the ovipositors of females are brownish and bulge from the end of the abdomen. Males are ready to mate about 12 days after molting to adult; females take about the same time. Females should be very well fed. When she is receptive, the bottom of her abdomen turns slightly yellow. Don't keep the adults in too close proximity before breeding, and before adding the female, the male needs to be placed in a container first and allowed to calm down. Males have an issue with overeating as adults; they only need food once or twice a week, but if given the chance, they will gorge themselves to the point of being too fat to connect with the female. If all goes well, the male will notice the female and hop on her, connecting within minutes. These guys don't like being watched or disturbed; because they spook easily, it's advisable to stay away from them during mating. Connection lasts 4-6 hours and is more than sufficient to fertilize the female.(agent A)

  • Sexing/sexual dimorphism (explanation of physical differences and/or adult sizes of the sexes)
  • Time needed from last molt to copulation
  • Tips: give us your methodology.
  • Tips for inducing copulation and fecundity
  • Tips for inducing female to lay oothecae

Oothecae:

Females will start laying within a week and can lay 6-12 ooths in their lives. Ooths can be kept like adults with slightly more frequent misting, and will hatch 50-80 nymphs in 4-9 weeks.(agent A)

  • Physical description and average size. Picture desired; include with other pictures at bottom of Care Sheet.
  • Diapause if necessary
  • Incubation time and temperature
  • Observed number/s and range of hatching nymphs

Optional

  • Health Issues: infections or illnesses encountered.
  • Additional Observations: pertinent information which doesn't neatly fit anywhere else.
  • Photos: up to five may be posted at the bottom of the completed template. Please limit these photos to no more than one of an ootheca, two of nymphs(different instars), one of an adult female, and one of an adult male.

CreoOoth1.jpg

(photo: jamurfjr)

CreoL2-1.jpg

(photo: jamurfjr)

Contributors: agent A, jamurfjr

Edited by jamurfjr
  • Upvote 3

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