# Pinning insects



## KevinsWither (Sep 4, 2016)

I have some questions. What size pins would I need to pin most insects in general professionally? What is a nice quality pin that would last for a nice price? Any supplies I would need?


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## CosbyArt (Sep 4, 2016)

KevinsWither said:


> I have some questions. What size pins would I need to pin most insects in general professionally? What is a nice quality pin that would last for a nice price? Any supplies I would need?


Same answers as given to your mantid pinning questions before at Arachnoboards here.

Most pinning guides recommend a size 2 or 3, but others prefer a wider range depending on the portion they are pinning. In which case buy various sizes to see what you prefer, or get a pin sampler of all the sizes.

Standard price is around $5 per 100 pins, Bioquip, eNasco, Indigo Instruments are a few such suppliers. For the pin material itself use stainless still so it does not rust (other types are sometimes available).

Other supplies needed vary - read how to pin insects, mantids in particular, in this sticky post here to answer your questions. It also includes videos on how to do it step by step and supplies/equipment needed.


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## KevinsWither (Sep 4, 2016)

Thank you. And also, how do you know me on Arachnoboards?


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## CosbyArt (Sep 4, 2016)

Your welcome. That is one of the first things comes up in a web search with Google for pinning mantids, but I am also on many other forums.


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## KevinsWither (Sep 5, 2016)

And what types of forcerps will I need to move wings or the specimens themselves?


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## CosbyArt (Sep 5, 2016)

KevinsWither said:


> And what types of forcerps will I need to move wings or the specimens themselves?


Forceps is just the technical name for tweezers generally speaking, and some refer to them as tongs even. I would suggest getting a standard 4"-5" long pair (stainless for quality/long life) with rounded ends so you don't accidentally pierce the specimen using them.

If you are getting them special just for pinning though, you might as well get the pinning forceps as they have angled tips and made for the purpose.


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## KevinsWither (Sep 5, 2016)

CosbyArt said:


> If you are getting them special just for pinning though, you might as well get the pinning forceps as they have angled tips and made for the purpose.


Fortunately I got the insect pins (a sampler size and size 2, from indigoinstruments. Now the thing is how would I make an insect pinning block? From scratch? Anything on gutting large insects (large mantids, stick insects, giant scorpions, tarantulas) so that they won't stink when mounted?


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## CosbyArt (Sep 6, 2016)

KevinsWither said:


> Fortunately I got the insect pins (a sampler size and size 2, from indigoinstruments. Now the thing is how would I make an insect pinning block? From scratch? Anything on gutting large insects (large mantids, stick insects, giant scorpions, tarantulas) so that they won't stink when mounted?


Great, glad you got the pins.






An insect pinning block is only used to set the height of the display pin needle itself (that is the reason for the stepped look, different heights for different sized specimens). In reality it is only useful if you are making huge framed collections and want to keep them at a very precise height - even then it only really applies to small specimens.

See this article on how to actually use a pinning block, and it should clear up why they are not needed (or even talked about in the pinning article on mantises). If however, you want one anyway...


The pinning block itself you can buy at any of the site links I gave for pins before and even eBay, or you can make your own.

The easiest guide for making your own pinning block is this one (otherwise you need a table or band saw, or at the very least be extremely good with a hand saw). If you make one you should be able to find the wood pre-cut for the guide link (easiest) at the right thickness and likely width at a hobby or craft store. Although for about $7 it would be simpler to buy one made, as the wood will cost at least half that depending on the store.

If by chance you are referring to the drying or spreading board/styrofoam sheet/cardboard used to hold the mantis in position, read the pinning article. As it is just what it sounds like a small piece of material  (even scrap large enough) that will hold the mantis in position, and is easy to push the pins into securely.

Regarding gutting large insects as mentioned in the pinning article, he like many others does nothing and leaves them intact. Some will however remove the internal organs by slicing open the abdomen with a scalpel/razor and using tweezers and cotton swabs (q-tips) carefully remove them. Usually a piece of wool is inserted to fill in the empty cavity space. The opening is then sealed with a small bead of super glue, or can be sutured (stitched) closed with a tiny curved suture needle and waxed thread.

Super glue works fine to close the opening and is the most common, if you are interested in suturing you will need to read up on that online as it is not something that can be explained in text (the size of needle and thread is harder to come by too, and is only recommended for experienced users as it is all too easy to rip/tear a mantis exoskeleton trying to do it).

Read this post about pinning too although it is not a guide, it may help you to understand it some from the various photos and posts.


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## KevinsWither (Sep 6, 2016)

Alrighty and is it best to freeze insects for pinning?


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## CosbyArt (Sep 6, 2016)

KevinsWither said:


> Alrighty and is it best to freeze insects for pinning?


The best way is to pin them as you acquire them. Of course this isn't always possible so the only solution is to freeze them, but it can affect their colors.

If you do freeze them do not use glass containers as it will often build up condensation on the jar as it freezes and can ruin the specimen, plastic bags work fine. When your ready to pin the frozen specimen you need to let it thaw naturally, which can be up to an hour. If the specimen has dried out some from the process though you will need to put the specimen in a relaxing jar before pinning.

To make a relaxing jar read the sticky post, it is labelled "*Construction of the Relaxing Jar*".


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## KevinsWither (Sep 6, 2016)

I put them in a plastic deli container with holes. Does that work?


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## CosbyArt (Sep 7, 2016)

KevinsWither said:


> I put them in a plastic deli container with holes. Does that work?


For which purpose are you using the deli cups? If it's for freezing, it should be fine. If it is for a relaxing jar, no that will not work as the humidity will escape.


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## KevinsWither (Sep 7, 2016)

It is for freezing. The relaxing jar must be made of glass? What if the plastic has no holes in it.


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## CosbyArt (Sep 7, 2016)

KevinsWither said:


> It is for freezing. The relaxing jar must be made of glass? What if the plastic has no holes in it.


Plastic without holes is fine for a relaxing jar. It just holds the fluid until the suspended specimen (on cotton and cardboard per the guide) becomes movable again.


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## KevinsWither (Sep 9, 2016)

I attempted to spread a grasshopper as practice. I kind of realized that I would need to make a spreading board. I managed to organize the legs but the wings are the hardest part.


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## CosbyArt (Sep 9, 2016)

KevinsWither said:


> I attempted to spread a grasshopper as practice. I kind of realized that I would need to make a spreading board. I managed to organize the legs but the wings are the hardest part.


Good, no matter how much you read you will learn more by trying.   Your right the wings are tough, but after doing it a few times you should have much better luck getting them the way you want. Keep at it and enjoy your new hobby.


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## KevinsWither (Sep 10, 2016)

Thats my flaw. I plan a lot but don't actually do the action. So far I just need to practice a lot more. Now would the insects need a drying period of a week or more?


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## CosbyArt (Sep 10, 2016)

KevinsWither said:


> Thats my flaw. I plan a lot but don't actually do the action. So far I just need to practice a lot more. Now would the insects need a drying period of a week or more?


It is with many of us, too many projects and not enough time.  

The drying period will vary depending on the specimen size and moisture, quote from the guide...



> ... The more the better, trust me!!! For a typical mantis, I give it at least 2 weeks to dry. For small insects sometimes five days will suffice. Again, the more the merrier. ...


For the grasshopper you mentioned above, about a week should be enough drying time. If it is a mantis or such then go for two weeks. It is better to give it plenty of time that way it is set and won't move when you remove it from the drying board. Although waiting can be tough and sucks, as everyone that does it wants to know how well it turned out.


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## KevinsWither (Sep 11, 2016)

Now I got the Shadow box, which is 16 x 20 inches. Will that be good enough to store a variety of insects and invertabrates, maybe around 50 with some small and some big?


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## CosbyArt (Sep 12, 2016)

@KevinsWither It should have plenty of room depending on your row spacing and the amount of large specimens. A 8"x12" display box can hold up to about 40 small specimens, so your larger one should be fine.


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## KevinsWither (Sep 15, 2016)

Now that it has been 5 days, my pinned grasshopper seems to be blackening on the abdomen, but otherwise is fine. Should I have any concern with that?


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## CosbyArt (Sep 15, 2016)

KevinsWither said:


> Now that it has been 5 days, my pinned grasshopper seems to be blackening on the abdomen, but otherwise is fine. Should I have any concern with that?


Usually there will be color loss and/or black appearing, it is a sign that the specimen was too moist. To prevent the problem in the future you can try placing the specimen to dry in a warmer/drier part of your house, on top of a bookcase, or a in a homemade specimen "dryer" (a shoebox partially filled with desiccant (silica-gel packs) to help dry it out a bit faster to prevent blackening - also uncooked rice is said to work good too).

From the pinning guide, he also talks about it here...



> *Possible Problems-*
> 
> During my many attempts of pinning and spreading insects, I have come across a handful of problems. First is color loss. Sometimes the specimen will loose color during the drying phase. It sometimes happens and really cannot be helped. Sometimes the specimen will darken up a bit too. Again it is a matter of luck. If you prevent direct sunlight from coming in contact with your specimen, color loss may be prevented. If you provide dry conditions, the darkening also may be prevented. Also, sometimes a specimen will completely rot and turn black. This happens rarely and will less likely happen if you provide dry conditions.


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## KevinsWither (Sep 16, 2016)

once the specimen is done, would I put the desiccant in the box with the specimens?


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## CosbyArt (Sep 16, 2016)

KevinsWither said:


> once the specimen is done, would I put the desiccant in the box with the specimens?


Once the specimen is pinned and needs to be set to dry, that is the time to use the "dryer" to help remove the moisture from the specimen before it has a chance to turn black or fade; however, if you are referring to once it is already dried (and in the specimen/display case) there is no longer any need for the desiccant (silica-gel packs) as it should be as dry as it can be. The only thing I hear usually put into a display case is a single mothball to keep out "bugs" that would eat the dry specimens.


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## KevinsWither (Sep 16, 2016)

would the hair dryer be used on the speciemens that are pinned and ready to dry for how long? Also my shadow box backing is black, how could I make the insects show up? I can't return the item.


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## CosbyArt (Sep 17, 2016)

@KevinsWither No, there is no hair dryer used anywhere (by any info by me or the guide) that would move the specimen drying, fade the specimen colors, likely scorch it, and not recommended at all for any length of time.

The only dryer I suggested was a shoebox and lid with desiccant (silica-gel packs) or dry rice, filled under the drying board in the shoebox to help dry the specimen better by removing all the humidity from the container/air that was released from the specimen.

For the shadow box you got you could paint the insides white, use spray adhesive like 3M Super 77 (I'll had great results on various projects with it) to attach a white poster board back, glue in a cut piece of Styrofoam, or whatever you want to give you a lighter background to better show your pinned collection.


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## KevinsWither (Sep 17, 2016)

Also the backing is made of black velour backing. Is it like some fabric or something?


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## CosbyArt (Sep 17, 2016)

KevinsWither said:


> Also the backing is made of black velour backing. Is it like some fabric or something?


Yes, that is a fabric. In that case you can try to cut the fabric off around the background of your case, but that may lead to more problems (and there is noway to know what is behind it). In which case I would recommend you try one of the methods I mentioned in my last message except painting the fabric.


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## KevinsWither (Sep 18, 2016)

Any materials for the backing or the place where the insect pins go? And it is wood behind the fabric backing.


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## CosbyArt (Sep 18, 2016)

KevinsWither said:


> Any materials for the backing or the place where the insect pins go? And it is wood behind the fabric backing.


There are three options really and that is cork, foam, or corrugated cardboard. Cork can be purchased in sheets or pre-cut pieces. Foam can range from the foam poster board found at many stores, styrofoam isn't really recommended as it easily breaks/crumbles but a type called Nu-Foam does fine, a product called Plastazote foam, construction/insulation foam (with the brand celotex recommended to 4-H DIY case makers),  to about anything in between. Corrugated cardboard tends to be a poorman's DIY material, it is the layered cardboard that boxes are made of, but can be bought in sheets.

It seems the ideal thickness of the backing material is about 1/2".

With any material you will have to cut it to properly fit into your box, and if desired painted white (the most common color for displays); however, the best way to make it white and make it look better (as it hides pin holes and damage) is to wrap it in a heavy cloth, like canvas material.


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## KevinsWither (Sep 20, 2016)

I am doing a cork board backing with some canvas. Any idea where I can get it for cheap? I found that it is really expensive, more than the shadow box itself.


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## KevinsWither (Sep 22, 2016)

Any online websites for suppliers of these materials? I looked at a few sources, but the cork seems to be a lot.


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## CosbyArt (Sep 22, 2016)

KevinsWither said:


> Any online websites for suppliers of these materials? I looked at a few sources, but the cork seems to be a lot.


Online stores will have them, but tends to run higher than prices I can find locally myself, I figure it is the same for you.

In that regard most of the craft stores (Jo-Ann fabrics, Michael's, Hobby Lobby) always seem to have more in stock at a local store (not found online) or at a discount/sale too - and most will have all the materials you need at one store. Speaking of which those I mention have 50% off coupons most of the time if you search for them at their websites for online or store use.

That said the cork I buy in sheets from DickBlick are here (my art material supplier local and online). A great option to save money would be to make a cork material sandwich - by that I mean a cork layer on top and form underneath. They sell it as well I found here, and at 3/8" in width (nearly the recommended 1/2") so it would work great but for that price you can simply glue the cork sheet to some Walmart or dollar store foam poster board sheet for less than half the price yourself.  At any rate you can see what I am talking about with the cork sandwich, but you only need the cork on top for your case.

The canvas material (also at some stores referred to as duck cloth) can be purchased at (links to the material) Walmart, Jo-Ann Fabrics, Michael's, Hobby Lobby, etc. as well. Once again if you are looking to save money, just buy cotton fabric locally that has some strength and can cover well (test at the store by hiding something behind a layer to see how bad it will show through.

Depending on what you find local and prices/coupons you should be able to make the backing material for your display case (canvas top, cork layer, then foam layer) - for about $5-$10 total.


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## KevinsWither (Sep 23, 2016)

Anything on relaxing papered specimens in general?


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## KevinsWither (Sep 23, 2016)

Also I started to remove the backing, turns out that there is foam under neath that I want to remove. Any method on doing that?


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## CosbyArt (Sep 23, 2016)

KevinsWither said:


> Anything on relaxing papered specimens in general?


Papered specimens?

If you are referring to prepared specimens, or ones already fully dried, you likely won't have much luck. Read the pinning guide, as it covers it.

If the specimen is fully dried you can try to relax it, but as said the in the guide the specimen will need to be relaxed for several days. In the process it will smell horrible once removed and likely turn black, and even then likely break/crack some if you try to reposition it. The relaxing process is for specimens that have dried some, but if it is fully dried you need to get another specimen.

If though the specimen is not fully dry, sure just use the relaxing jar as already explained previously, and explained in the pinning guide as well.



KevinsWither said:


> Also I started to remove the backing, turns out that there is foam under neath that I want to remove. Any method on doing that?


As I can't see what your box looks like, and I'm not personally doing it, I don't have much to go on. In general - to remove the foam I would suggest simply tearing it out as carefully as possible, and then scraping off the leftover foam/residue with a razor blade.


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## KevinsWither (Sep 24, 2016)

Here are some links to the photos of the board as I do not know or have sucessfully posted images on there 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1sVBMeaEynzZEJXbThsRWJGQVk/view 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1sVBMeaEynzeU4zMjl2ZGc0YkU/view


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## CosbyArt (Sep 24, 2016)

Two photos in your post are a close-up edge of your shadow box, the links are not view-able though as you did not set the photos sharing properties. About all I can tell is the width of the shadow box appears to be about 1", and the black foam is open celled and likely polyester.

The foam appears thin, about 1/4" so it should be easy to remove, so just pry up a side and remove it. Not sure what else you want me to say.


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## KevinsWither (Sep 24, 2016)

Alright I changed the links I believe so that the link is accessible. Now what glue could I use to attach a new foam or a cork board to it?


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## CosbyArt (Sep 25, 2016)

KevinsWither said:


> Alright I changed the links I believe so that the link is accessible. Now what glue could I use to attach a new foam or a cork board to it?


The links are working now. It is a side view and the glass top view as well. Before gluing anything you should create your layered materials into a finished block first.

If you plan on using the foam idea above, the canvas cloth covering the layer of cork and foam, you need to pre-cut your foam and cork to the size you need for the shadow box. For best results I find a metal ruler and razor allow much cleaner cuts.

With those cut to size you need to glue them lightly to one another. The best option is a spray adhesive glue, like the 3M Super 77 or this one - I've used other spray glues and they can be hit and miss on quality/stickyness though, but can save money. Often those adhesives are called a general purpose spray adhesive or similar, and are about $5 a can, but should do fine on this project.

Take the cork and foam outside, lay them on newspaper, and spray the glue lightly on the two sides to glue together (spray both the cork and foam). Let the glue sit for a few minutes (read the can directions as they do vary some), then align the cork and form together (sticky sides facing together) and press them together - as you only have one shot at aligning them, start in a corner and slowly lay the material down keeping it aligned as you stick them together. If needed repeat gluing pieces of foam together to get the desired 1/2" thickness.

Next, you need to wrap them in the canvas/duck cloth if you using that too. The easiest method with the best look, would be to let the cloth overlap 1"-2" on the back of the foam after covering the front and sides. I personally would just leave the cloth uncut to ensure it fits properly, and cut the excess cloth off the back. Spray the adhesive onto the cork side (top/front) of the cork/foam block you made, just glue the top and nothing else. Let the glue sit as the directions say on the can.

When it's ready, lay your canvas/duck cloth out completely flat (wrinkle free) on a hard surface, and hold the block above the fabric about 2" from both sides of a corner (allowing for enough cloth to overlap your material). With the block positioned slowly lower the glued block and press it onto the cloth, before the glue sets tight you should be able to pull the fabric a bit to get rid of any minor wrinkles you may have gotten accidentally. Let the glue harden then pull the fabric over the foam onto the back, then using scissors cut the cloth so there is 1"-2" of cloth overlapping on the backside of the foam all the way around the foam block.

Lay the block on newspaper (cloth side down) and unwrap the cloth from the foam block back and sides (leave the front glue side alone), as you will need to glue the loose cloth to the block. Using the spray adhesive, put glue along the foam edge and the foam bottom of the block - just spray a line a few inches around the bottom for the cloth to attach to. If you feel confident in your spray gluing abilities, spray the inside of the cloth that will touch the foam on the back too. Let the glue sit as the directions say on the can. Then attach the cloth slowly, pulling gently to remove wrinkles and pressing it into the glue on the foam. Do that for four of all the cloth sides and your block will be finished.

Finally with the completed layered cloth/cork/foam block you are ready to mount it into your shadow box. Spray adhesive onto the bottom of the foam block (the side with the overlapped cloth). Let the glue sit as the directions say on the can. Then carefully lower and position the finished block into it's location in your shadow box. Your done.  

Just go slowly, and be aware of what is getting glued properly, and you should be fine. Of course check with the instructions as you go, but it is much easier project than imagined. It will likely take 30 minutes to 1 hour to do, but once you have figured out how to do something like this, it will only take 10-20 minutes.


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## KevinsWither (Sep 25, 2016)

I believe that this is the way the backing stays with the box:  

The thing I found with this is that when removed some of the foam, the length of the foam seems to be needed so that the box mainly stays airtight. So I'll probably have to measure the interior dimensions and whatnot. Now how much depth is needed for a shadow box?


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## CosbyArt (Sep 25, 2016)

Strange way for the box to open and close, more like a picture frame than any display type box. With that being the case though you should leave what is there, and simply make the foam block as described above and just glue it to the boxes current foam overlapping the foam in place already.

Take the back off and glue both the finished block and the boxes current back foam with the spray adhesive, that way the bond is even stronger.


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## KevinsWither (Sep 26, 2016)

Then I realized that I might do a huge amount of specimens at once. Along with making sure that it turns out well and stuff. Now I have to find some way to make all these plans reality. Also I took off the rest of the foam and now I have the problem of making sure the cork board or foam and canvas top fits. I'll probably do some dimension fitting soon.


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## CosbyArt (Sep 26, 2016)

Well have fun pinning, and best of luck with your project.


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## KevinsWither (Sep 30, 2016)

Would 3/16th inch thick cork with canvas cloth be sufficient for insect pins?


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## CosbyArt (Sep 30, 2016)

KevinsWither said:


> Would 3/16th inch thick cork with canvas cloth be sufficient for insect pins?


Depends on how thick the foam is, as the ideal thickness is 1/2".

As it is now at maybe 4/16 (1/4") with the canvas you are 1/4" shy on thickness and that would result in very poor pinning in the box (with the specimens likely to fall over and get damaged when the box is hung or moved).


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## KevinsWither (Sep 30, 2016)

Okay well the 3/16 inch cork is used so that it replaces the background foam. Now would 3/8th of an inch be good? Do insects need lots of depth space? I plan on pinning a rhino beetle or two.


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## CosbyArt (Oct 1, 2016)

KevinsWither said:


> Okay well the 3/16 inch cork is used so that it replaces the background foam. Now would 3/8th of an inch be good? Do insects need lots of depth space? I plan on pinning a rhino beetle or two.


Sure 3/8" should be close enough (just 1/8" off).  The pinning material thickness is for the amount it can grip and hold the pins securely, more material will grip better and have less problems. While less material of course will lead to less grip and more likely for things to fall or move around - side to side movement being common for little pin grip/material thickness.

The depth needed depends on how large the specimens are and the length to the top of the pins used. As long as your display/shadow box has the room it should be no problem; however, you will have to try and figure out that yourself.


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## KevinsWither (Oct 1, 2016)

Good news I managed to build a spreading board and stuff. Now next problem is getting a good amount of specimens. And could I glue cork onto cork to add thickness?


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## CosbyArt (Oct 1, 2016)

KevinsWither said:


> Good news I managed to build a spreading board and stuff. Now next problem is getting a good amount of specimens. And could I glue cork onto cork to add thickness?


Glad to hear you got a spreading board and stuff made, sounds like you should have about everything you need. 



Indeed finding specimens can be tough this time of year, but your classified ad may provide you with more than you would want.

Sure gluing cork together is fine, and how most cork sold is made anyway (as it is a crumbly material and pieces are glued together in blocks and cut - especially sheet cork, as it is like particle board in that respect).


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## KevinsWither (Oct 1, 2016)

I decided that to simplify things I plan to paint it. I would like to use natural paints. I don't know what color to paint. I was thinking natural pine color, white or something else. And when cork is penetrated with pins, does the holes show?


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## CosbyArt (Oct 2, 2016)

KevinsWither said:


> I decided that to simplify things I plan to paint it. I would like to use natural paints. I don't know what color to paint. I was thinking natural pine color, white or something else. And when cork is penetrated with pins, does the holes show?


It was mentioned somewhere back, but I don't want to bother to find my comment.  Yes, cork can show holes (although in many cases it shouldn't) but depending on the cork it may rip and crumble too if you are removing pins regularly - and why the canvas covering it was recommended.


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## KevinsWither (Oct 2, 2016)

Also I was hoping to know, could spiders be pinned?


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## CosbyArt (Oct 3, 2016)

KevinsWither said:


> Also I was hoping to know, could spiders be pinned?


Yes, you sure can pin a spider, or even their empty exuviae from a molt (which is common for tarantula keepers to do).  

See some pinning examples on youtube - https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=spider+pinning


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## KevinsWither (Oct 5, 2016)

Actually I managed to pin one of my deceased specimens and I kept it in a dark cardboard box with dry rice in it. This specimen is an inch big.


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## CosbyArt (Oct 6, 2016)

Glad to see your still with it. Any photos you want to share of your current specimens? Also if you want specimens you do not have access to, you can buy them at Peter's other online store http://deadinsects.net/.

Now that it is fall and my bug collecting days are numbered this year, I'm hoping to do some pinning projects myself with my free time over the winter. I ordered plenty various supplies to try out recently, I just need to decide which species or project to do first.


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## KevinsWither (Oct 21, 2016)

Yeah I do want to share photos, but the catch is that I can't seem to be able to post photos of them on this forum without getting errors like -200 or something along the lines. Now I did manage to get a few more specimens and get those pinned.


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