# DIY Large feeder culture container - waxworms and others



## CosbyArt (Aug 25, 2015)

My culture container is large enough for nearly anything you would culture for feeders. It has easy access to clean or change the insides of the culture - and of course collect the feeders themselves.

I used a Sterilite model 1888 - 66 quart (62 liter) container, sized 24 1/2" x 17 3/4" x 13 3/8" (62.2cm x 45.1cm x 34cm). It was chosen as I picked it up after the holidays for only $5, and it had plenty of room. You can use any container you prefer for this project.

I built this to hold my waxworm culture (Achroia grisella, the lesser wax moth) as my old culture container was inadequate for the growing population. My original starter culture container was 7" x 7" 6" ( 17.78cm x 17.78cm x 15.24cm) in size, you can see photos and read about it here.

This DIY tutorial is aimed at making a waxworm culture, but if you change the food/substrate to whatever your feeder needs it will work for that too.


*Step 1 - Ventilation*

The first thing is to provide proper ventilation so the culture doesn't become too moist and mold, or other similar problems. I've found a opening in the lid that is 50%-75% mesh is required. Also you will want to close up any areas that the newborn feeders can escape through.

On my 66qt culture tub the ventilation on the lid is a 9" x 8" opening. Realistically it should be slightly larger, but I had a object to trace of that size so I went with that.

For the inside of the lid ventilation I covered it with aluminum screen mesh. Then on the outside a layer of fine mesh, I use organza fabric - it is used to keep newborn feeders in, and keeps fruit flies out. The fabric can trap the newborn feeders as I have seen a few from my old culture that become stuck in between it, so I know it works great.

On my 66qt container the area around the handles of the container had to be filled in to prevent escapes. I used organza fabric on the inside running the end over the container to the bottom of the handle area. The lid sits on the organza mesh and seals up the problem area. On top of that I used a aluminum mesh to prevent older and adult feeders from eating though it. This will have to be adapted to your culture container.

So far about two weeks of using the new container I have had no escaped feeders or other problems, so I think all the areas have been sealed. In the photos you can see the ventilation and escape proof areas.






*Step 2 - Feeder Sleeves*

I typically use my 10" long tweezers through a opening filled with sponge to capture feeders; however, with the extra depth and larger size it is not possible. The solution was to make some insect rearing/breeding sleeves - as it would allow me to stop feeder escapes and get feeders out easily.

It is similar to a laboratory glove box, but in this case the idea is to let material pass in and out of the container.

Construction is pretty straight forward and simple, although it may seem complicated at first. Walk through the process a few times and it will become much more clear.

*Step A -* For a added element to further prevent escapes when not in use, I make closed sleeve ports. They are made from plastic containers with the bottom cut off, and my arms fit through comfortably without excess room. I found 2.5oz cotton candy tubs were a great fit.

*Step B - *With the bottoms of the sleeve containers removed I position them where I want to mount them. Then using a marker I outline the bottom of the container on the culture tub, and cut out the holes for the sleeve containers. You will want to go slow and do this accurately for the best fit.

*Step C - *Press the sleeve containers into the culture tub holes, you will want the bottom of the sleeve containers to extend about 1.5" (4cm) inside the culture tub. If needed slightly enlarge the holes in the culture tub very slowly until you get the right fit. Ideally the sleeve containers will press into the tub making a tight fit and hold themselves easily - mine need to be inserted/pulled with force.

*Step D - *With the sleeve containers in place run a nice thick bead of hot glue around the sleeve container edge on the outside and inside of the tub. I recommend you use a high temp glue gun for best results. Do not wet the glue to hurry the dry time either, as you want it to give the best bond strength possible.

*Step E - *You will need a sleeve material, that is transparent to show any feeders inside it. There are a few options such as clear raincoats, clear rain guard bags made for camera or hunting gear, of course you could use plastic sheeting and make your own sleeves (such as window weatherproofing plastic).

I took the cheap way out, as I did not find any options in my area that was under $10 - so I use two empty bread bags. They are great for a few reasons besides price, as they work great, easy to replace, and are available almost everywhere. Depending on the bread company, the bags may be really thick too. It seems the cheaper the bread costs, the higher quality/thicker bags you will get.

Anyway the sleeve material will need to be open on both ends, so if you use bread bags simply cut off the closed end.

*Step F - *To attach and close the sleeve when not in use, you will need two rubber bands per sleeve. With the sleeve port lid off, put the end of the bag through it into the culture tub. You will want the lid off the culture tub to easily do this step. Roll the end of the sleeve around the inside protruding sleeve container (the 1.5" (4cm) area). Then put a rubber band around the sleeve and sleeve port, to lock the sleeve into place. See the photo below.

*Step G - *Using the sleeve for best results. In the below photo you will see the various stages of the sleeve labeled 1, 2, and 3 - with others showing it open and such.

To close the sleeve twist it multiple times to close the sleeve opening, see photo label 3. Take the twisted sleeve and fold it in half outside the sleeve port. Then using a rubber band secure the folded section, by stretching a rubber band over the folded area.

Put the closed sleeve into the sleeve port (photo label 2). For security put the sleeve port lid on to further secure it from any feeders escaping (photo label 1).

To open just reverse the steps, being careful not to tear the sleeve or pull it out when removing the rubber band on the twisted sleeve. If you practice the steps a few times before using the culture tub you will develop your own techniques.

If the sleeve becomes damaged, feeders enter the sleeve port, or the sleeve pulls loose - simply use the other sleeve to gain access to repair it.







*Step 3 - Feeder Food*

With the culture container finished it is time to mix up the food for the feeders. The following recipe is my variation on one I found written by snakegirl, and was the base for my original culture setup. So many thanks go to her.

One tip is to buy your ingredients from any discount store as the feeders will not care if it's a brand name or not. In fact it seems often the cheaper the food, the less additives and such are added to it. The exception to this is honey, insure it is 100% real honey - if it is an option buy it direct from a bee keeper (they can be found at farmer markets and such).

For waxworms the recipe I use is...



> 9oz package of wheat crackers
> 
> 6oz of cat food
> 
> ...


For the recipe above I weighed the items, but when I mix it up I simply fill my grinder cup half full of ingredients multiple times so the recipe is approximate. I found it doesn't have to be exact, and fluctuation in wheat cracker package size and such happens. I simply try to get it close to the recipe amount.

The 66qt culture was five times the recipe amount above to fill it about 1" to 1 1/2" (2.5cm to 4cm) deep. You can replace the cat food with dog food, guinea pig food, rabbit food, etc. It just needs to be a good source of protein for the waxworms.

I grind all my dry ingredients into a powder, and pour it through a screen shifter to ensure it is all ground (pouring the larger pieces out of the shifter back into the grinder as needed). You can view my shifter in the image below, they are found in the kitchen isle at stores (I got mine in three widths for $1).

When grinding it is best to grind the ingredients in this order, it starts with the driest to the wettest, so you will not have to clean your grinder between ingredients. Start with the near 100% dry potato flakes, followed by oats, wheat crackers, and finally the cat food. The four dry ingredients are put into a large mixing bowl and with a spatula or spoon mixed until thoroughly mixed. (See photos below).

Into the dry mix, I next mix in the Glycerine in small amounts - mixing as I pour. Then I add the honey in the same method; however it may tend to clump, so some manual hand mixing (squishing) may be required. Lastly, I shave the beeswax over the mix, in light layers, mixing each time a layer is formed.

Put the food mix into the container and pat it flat. Making it flat, makes it easier to see the waxworms moving around.

The quarter in the photo is for size reference as it is a lot of mix.  







*Step 4 - Feeder Housing*

Waxworms like a place to spin their cocoon to pupate to moths and a good solution is to use corrugated cardboard, found on nearly all shipping boxes.

They like the ridges/grooves inside the cardboard so you will have to remove one of the paper sides from the cardboard. It is rather easy to do but is time consuming. The best method I have found is to pry up the paper edge and while pulling it to the opposite side with one hand, use a razor to release it from the ridges inside with my other hand.

** Alternatively *you can purchase the cardboard sheet ready to go as Corrugated Wrap; although, the ready material is not as rigid.






I cut the finished cardboard into pieces and stack them vertical inside the culture, with the ridges running from side to side (horizontal). In the 66qt culture I hot glued the edges slightly to make it secure, as they are large and I do not want them falling over. I left one side open for my original culture to be added (it has cardboard already).







*Step 5 - Finish*

The final step is to add your feeders, a starter culture of 50 waxworms is a minimum with several hundred more preferred. In my case I simply added my original waxworm culture to the new 66qt one (you can see it on the bottom-right of the first image of this post).

I also added two small spring clamps (as seen in the first photo of this post) which are black and one on each side of the top lid. It securely holds the lid to the container in the weakest points, the middle of the lid.

Some people also add crumbled up wax paper as well on top of the food layer. Seems even those that do it are not sure if there is a point too it, but the adult moths will eat it some and lay eggs on it too. So it isn't like it hurts anything.

The waxworms will slowly eat the cardboard boring holes through it though, so you may have to add more or replace it in the future. Also as your culture progresses they will turn the food into dropping/excrement so more food can be added on top of the old food layer as needed. I have found it difficult to tell it apart from their food simply by looking; however, if you break it apart it will tend to be small round pieces that do not stick together.

Any dead wax moths or waxworms can be left as the waxworms will eat them, I don't both to clean my culture until it is time to replace it.


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## Bloodtkr (Aug 25, 2015)

Your words your pictures..everything marked..everything membered .... I Love It !


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## LAME (Aug 25, 2015)

Woooooow... So THIS is what you were talking about! Very nice build CosbyArt, your DYI threads always come in handy


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## CosbyArt (Aug 25, 2015)

Bloodtkr said:


> Your words your pictures..everything marked..everything membered .... I Love It !


Thanks, I know it can get wordy so I take photos of the key points. That way even if someone skims it they can build one. The instructions are there for meticulous people or anyone having trouble.  



LAME said:


> Woooooow... So THIS is what you were talking about! Very nice build CosbyArt, your DYI threads always come in handy


Thanks LAME, it is one that I finished lately. I have a few more in the works that will apply to mantid keepers in general, not just those breeding large feeder colonies. Although I am waiting for nature to run it course with a few areas, before writing them up.


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## Deacon (Dec 12, 2015)

Thomas,

I cut armholes in my worm bin just like your DIY and was so excited about not having moths flying in my face! However, I am having trouble finding sleeves that the worms don't eat through in a day! When I open the arm hole lids, the rings are full of worms! First I used plastic turkey bags (like what you can quick-cook a turkey. They shredded them!) So I sewed organza sleeves with elastic wrist bands and was so pleased. The worms have never eaten through the organza on the air vent so I thought it would be a good choice. Again, 24 hours later, the worms had eaten through and were in the ring. They even ate the really heavy duty rubber bands I used!

Has anyone else followed this DIY and had success with your sleeve choice? If so, what are you using?

Thanks,

Nancy


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## Introvertebrate (Dec 12, 2015)

Maybe you can pull the sleeves out when you're not using them, and cap the holes on the inside.


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## Deacon (Dec 13, 2015)

Introvertebrate,

My mind has been whirling since reading your post. I was really excited until I realized I would only be able to cap one ring on the inside, haha. But your comment, "when you're not using them," gave me an idea. Instead of pulling the sleeve into the ring and banding it all up as the DIY suggests (the worms still have access to it), I will remove the sleeves from the inside completely.

The organza (so I could see through them) sleeves that I made not only have elastic at the wrist to keep moths from flying into them, but I also put a wide band of elastic at the arm ends so I could slip it over the inner ring when I had to replace the plastic bags.

I will make new sleeves (as the originals are trashed) and slip them onto the outside of the ring only when I want in the bin! I should be able to reach into the sleeve, remove the ring lid, and push on into the bin, past all the pupating worms. If not, they'll get a rude awakening when I knock them off the inner ring! I'll update this when I see if it actually works.

So, Introvertebrate, thanks for the mental push :detective: It really helps to bounce ideas around with others ! I love this forum! It just makes the hobby that much more fun!

Nancy


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## Introvertebrate (Dec 14, 2015)

Hi Nancy,

In reference to capping the second lid, I was envisioning something like this. Attaching a dowel to the lid, so it can be pulled against the container from the outside of the bin with one hand. I haven't worked out all the details yet. Anyway, it sounds like you've come up with a plan.


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## Deacon (Dec 14, 2015)

That is a great detail! You'd have to have the top of the container be on the inside for the lid to fit it. I have the top of the container on the outside and the cut end inside the bin which won't accept the lid. Because I used cottage cheese cartons, the lids are a struggle to get off. But your idea should work if you have a good-sized metal washer on top your lid, drill a small hole in the lid, and screw down into the dowel on the under side. Maybe that way would keep the dowel from becoming detached if you have to pull really hard and the lid won't crack?

Edit: On the DIY plan, it was suggested to leave about 1 1/2" of the cut end protruding into the bin so the sleeve could be attached. But if you want to attach the sleeves on the outside instead, that's where you need that extension. I only had 1/2" protruding outside the bin so I need to adjust the carton (by shoving another carton into it so they cup, giving me additional room to hang the sleeves as needed (at least an inch in my case).

So, I have removed the chewed-up sleeves from within the rings (and all the worms that were cocooning in there). Made new sleeves with an inch-wide elastic inserted in a channel (like a waistband) and attached them outside the bin on the deeper ring (cottage cheese carton lip.) It worked perfectly and when I was done capturing moths tonight, I quickly pulled my arms out of the bin, removed the sleeves from the outer ring and snapped on the lid.---all from the outside. No loose moths. My sleeves are safely away from the chewing worms and I'm happy to say it works.

Thanks, Introvertebrate, for the idea (removing the sleeves when not in use.) It is brilliant and I'm done messing with the worm bin!


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## BigDazz (Sep 14, 2016)

@CosbyArt

Will the wax worms/moths eat through fiberglass mesh... Unfortunately I threw away the only piece of metal mesh I had. ?


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## BigDazz (Sep 14, 2016)

Nevermind... I went to a local General Discount store and bought a giant strainer....I cut out the mesh and I'm going to use that...


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## CosbyArt (Sep 14, 2016)

@BigDazz Indeed the waxworms will eat through about anything they can get their mouths on, flat surfaces are usually safe, but any item that has an edge will quickly become their dinner including the plastic/fiberglass mesh.

The moths don't seem to eat anything as adults, but the only thing to look out for with them is they can fit through incredibly small gaps. I've found if there is a gap that a piece of printer paper can fit into, the moths can make it through as well.

Great, glad you found aluminum mesh - that should keep them from getting though.


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## BigDazz (Sep 15, 2016)

@CosbyArt How did u fix the gap situation??


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## hibiscusmile (Sep 15, 2016)

​
Really good post, thanks for adding it.


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## CosbyArt (Sep 15, 2016)

BigDazz said:


> @CosbyArt How did u fix the gap situation??


Honestly there is only one solution, and that is to cover the entire edge of the lid/container with tape (ensuring it is completely sealed all the way around it). That way it can be easily removed to clean/alter/add to the culture as needed, but keeps any moths inside. Then to collect the moths use the feeder sleeves, as opening the lid either way just results in loosing all the moths.  

I originally used clamps, however, there were still gaps in-between the clamps I discovered later. When my culture started to produce moths again I would usually see a few near the room light each day. Adding more clamps didn't solve the issue, if anything it seemed to make it worse, so I settled on taping the lid.

The only way though to ensure it is escape proof is to seal the lid with hot glue or epoxy - but with either removing the lid later on will be impossible and not recommended.



hibiscusmile said:


> Really good post, thanks for adding it.


Thanks, and your welcome. Interesting enough my waxworm/moth culture was done with the waxworms I bought from your site.


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## BigDazz (Sep 16, 2016)

To piggy back of @CosbyArt &amp; @invertebrates concepts I added a little twist... The thing for me is unlike u guys I don't work with a large about of Mantis or insects therefore most of you guys builds are far more than I need for my one baby lol... 

Instead of the cup/plastic bag idea I choose to go with a PVC set up since my container is much smaller.

I used 3 pieces two end caps 1 1/2, 1" and a 1 1/2 x 1 1/4 reducer


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## BigDazz (Sep 16, 2016)

This is what it looks like outside and inside the box... I cut a small piece of dowel and screwed it through the cap that will be inside the container... I also added a little piece of chain on the other end of the dowel so I can retrieve when I'm done. Also the caps provides a nice snug fit so I shouldn't have to worry about anything crawling through while it's closed.

With the hole and and container being smaller I can use 10" tweezers for the moths... I'm thinking about trying a turkey baster to grab them or using a small net jewelry pouch tied to the end and wait a while til I catch a few... Just concepts but they should work (hopefully).

Here is a video of the conatiner all put together and how I plan to use it...


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## CosbyArt (Sep 16, 2016)

@BigDazz Looks like it will work great, and a interesting sleeve idea - with such tight tolerances in the plumbing parts you shouldn't have any problems with moths escaping either. Thanks for the video of it in action, makes sense now as I was curious how it would function.


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## BigDazz (Sep 16, 2016)

@CosbyArt Thanks! Lol yea I figured a video would explain it a lot better.


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## BigDazz (Sep 16, 2016)

@CosbyArt with these kind of containers would u suggest a very small heating element... Like say a Beta heater... My place is terrible as far climate goes... Winter is very cold and Summers are very hot!


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## CosbyArt (Sep 16, 2016)

@BigDazz A small heater would be great, as in the wild the waxworms are inside beehives and stay rather warm. If you can provide temperatures in the 80's F they will culture better/faster too. Here is a link to the original guide on culturing waxworms I used to get started, it may help fill in some details.


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## LAME (Nov 2, 2016)

@CosbyArt @BigDazz

I also made a wax worm breeder, though mines not as fancy as these two... mine is more of a minimalist build (without prong hole/hand holes) but revolved around this main concept. Should work..

Since I don't mind chasing and hunting down flying bugs around my house, I didn't think id need em'... but I could always add it if need be.

Currently have atleast 75 worms (bought) and ive already got a few moths emerged ( not bought..), plan to add in another 100-150 wax worms when I get paid.


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## BigDazz (Nov 2, 2016)

@LAME Would love to know how it works out for you... I haven't tried mine yet... With my hatred of flies I'm still enjoying the hunt for my girl to enjoy lol

I think the biggest thing that turned me off is the moth lifespan... If I'm correct I remember hearing they only live a few days... Now I think about it maybe buying a batch of wax worms every week will secure a steady supply of moths... Again I'm not sure... What's ur thoughts on this?!?


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## LAME (Nov 2, 2016)

@BigDazz

I think the moths themselves live up to a few weeks, once they breach adult they don't eat and only live to breed. Once they mate I believe they die.

I'm mainly starting this as a snack vending machine for my 2 beardies. As I live over 40 miles to the closest pet store, it's easier for me to raise my own rather than waste gas and money on trips not knowing if anyone will even have any in stock. Plus the idolos can eat the moths... which is also helpful for me with the colder months coming in.

Will definitely let you know how this goes, I just got it all together (food and all...) So I guess we will see in a few weeks what happens.


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## BigDazz (Nov 2, 2016)

@LAME

Look forward to the results!


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## CosbyArt (Nov 2, 2016)

@LAME Best of luck with your moths.  They are a great easy feeder to culture, just add new food and clean out the culture of dead moths/worms/silk in-between generations and they will keep going. My last culture did three successful generations, before I realized they needed new food (the food doesn't disappear or loose any height, but it was full of tunnels and lost it's nutritional value and honey at that point, but I lost interest as it was summer anyway.  

@BigDazz The moths live about 2 to 3 weeks once they emerge from their cocoons to the last few are left in a culture. I leave them alone for about a week after I notice the first moths, that way they have time to mate and begin laying new eggs. Then I start to harvest them as feeders, but of course if you manually adding new worms or have more than needed anyway you can collect them at any point.


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## LAME (Dec 1, 2016)

@BigDazz @CosbyArt

I've successfully raised waxworms up to waxmoths and now have my first generation of tiny little wax worms! 

Of course I must thank Mr Cosbyart for the pointers on the food, I doubt I would've gotten too far without his advice.  Thanks bro


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## CosbyArt (Dec 1, 2016)

LAME said:


> @BigDazz @CosbyArt
> 
> I've successfully raised waxworms up to waxmoths and now have my first generation of tiny little wax worms!
> 
> Of course I must thank Mr Cosbyart for the pointers on the food, I doubt I would've gotten too far without his advice.  Thanks bro


Your more than welcome LAME. I'm glad to see you got them sorted out, and it's great to see such a small healthy waxworm too.  

You should notice a large population bloom with each generation now (seemingly quintupled in size), so beware as they quickly become a huge culture if given enough room and food in just a few generations.


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## LAME (Dec 7, 2016)

@BigDazz @CosbyArt

Here's another update on my progress. My worms have grown so much in such a little time, some are getting massive! I took a few out for feeding today, check these out;





I must say i am pretty impressed. I may actually keep breeding and using these for awhile.


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## CosbyArt (Dec 7, 2016)

@LAME Looking good, great to read your able to use them already.  Did you see a population spike from the amount you stared with?


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## LAME (Dec 7, 2016)

CosbyArt said:


> @LAME Looking good, great to read your able to use them already.  Did you see a population spike from the amount you stared with?


Oooooooh yeah, I have tons of babies and a handful or so that's growing like in that photo. I didn't even think I had that much as I only seen about 8 or 9 moths at first... but I guess it worked out lol   

I have my culture sitting on a rack right above my heat vent (where I keep Ruin) so they stay pretty warm at all times. I was using a heating pad but had to start using it for breeding the dubia, which are also exploding in numbers.


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## CosbyArt (Dec 7, 2016)

LAME said:


> Oooooooh yeah, I have tons of babies and a handful or so that's growing like in that photo. I didn't even think I had that much as I only seen about 8 or 9 moths at first... but I guess it worked out lol
> 
> I have my culture sitting on a rack right above my heat vent (where I keep Ruin) so they stay pretty warm at all times. I was using a heating pad but had to start using it for breeding the dubia, which are also exploding in numbers.


Great!  It is strange how well they can hide, but seems they did their task well.  

Nice, a little extra heat is always a advantage for any feeder. Always a plus when you have too many feeders, especially a few varieties.


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## LAME (Dec 9, 2016)

CosbyArt said:


> Great!  It is strange how well they can hide, but seems they did their task well.
> 
> Nice, a little extra heat is always a advantage for any feeder. Always a plus when you have too many feeders, especially a few varieties.


Right? Definitely.

I'm actually about to upgrade mine into a bigger (...er, well... taller I should say) enclosure, and use the current bin for another feeders enclosure. How do you get your cardboard separated like that? Is there a magic trick to it? Yours looks so much nicer lol.

I've tried peeling it softly... doesn't work

I've tried a razor blade while softly peeling... still didn't work. -_-

Heeeeelp me pleeeeeease!  LoL


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## CosbyArt (Dec 9, 2016)

@LAME Lol  

Yeah the cardboard I separate slowly and use only a razor blade. The trick likely though is in the technique, so I'll have to see if I can put together a quick video for you later on demonstrating it.


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## LAME (Dec 9, 2016)

CosbyArt said:


> @LAME Lol
> 
> Yeah the cardboard I separate slowly and use only a razor blade. The trick likely though is in the technique, so I'll have to see if I can put together a quick video for you later on demonstrating it.


Lol  

Nah, unnecessary bro. I ended up finding one of my small paint brushes that was surprisingly the same size as the slots in the cardboard, which made it alot easier.


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## CosbyArt (Dec 10, 2016)

LAME said:


> Lol
> 
> Nah, unnecessary bro. I ended up finding one of my small paint brushes that was surprisingly the same size as the slots in the cardboard, which made it alot easier.


Sounds interesting. So how do you do your paint brush method then?


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## LAME (Dec 11, 2016)

For me i started by trying to separate the top layer from the cardboard, which ended up in tearing only little pieces off at a time. After ripping what I could off I simply inserted the pointed handle end into each "slot" in the cardboard middle layering. Using a small bit of force, I pushed the handle from one side to the next, then repeat on the next "slot". Making my way to the other end of my cardboard piece, my brushes handle did majority of the hard work... All I had to do was rip what off little that was left. 

Now... it's not Cosby perfect, buuuuut it's pretty close I'd say.     

(will have to get a photo,I just got off. -_- )


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## hibiscusmile (Feb 26, 2017)

I might of missed it, did you use aluminum screen?


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