Texas Unicorn nymphs still available.
All ooths now sold. If you are still interested in an ooth, please PM me to reserve one for you if they become available again.
These are a relatively easy, yet awesome species. Here are some observations I've noted:
These are about my favorite of all the mantis species I've kept thus far. They really aren't a hard species, and are pretty hardy if conditions are right.
The ooths require no diapause and have been taking an average of 41 days from laying to hatching, kept in average temperatures of between 70°F and 85°F. They hatch in the typical "burst" method (no stragglers days after observed hatching). The newborn nymphs are able to start taking D. hydei on the second day after hatching, although I do usually throw some D. melanogaster in at the first feeding also, just to accomodate the ones who aren't brave enough to tackle the D. hydei right off the bat... but it's not imperitave.
I've had very good luck keeping them communally right up to sub-adult, provided ample food is available at all times. I've separated them at this point, just to ensure no losses from cannibalism. It's possible they could still be kept communnally within an enclosure providing ample space, separated and grouped by sex, and being very well fed at all times... but I haven't tried it. Upon maturing to adult, the females will eat the males if hungry, and sometimes even if plenty of food is available. But I have had couples live in the same enclosure together for some time before this eventually happened.
They will take appropriate sized crickets or roaches up to, and beyond the fruit fly stage. But they prefer flying food, and house flies work best during the older nymph stages. House flies, and then either house flies or blue bottles work great when they reach adult, and I also offer medium crickets to the adults (especially females) occasionally for variety. But too large crickets scare them (especially the males), and they will avoid them.
The ooths require misting a few times a week, letting the moisture dry thoroughly in between mistings. I mist the nymphs every day to every other day when in the younger instars especially. But constant high humidity without adequate ventilation can cause deaths. Very good ventilation is required and key with this species, and they do not need higher ranges of humidity. I mist this species to provide adequate humidity to help with molting, but mainly for the nymphs to drink.
