Miomantis paykullii (Egyptian Pygmy Mantis)

Introduction:

Miomantis paykullii has the classic mantis look but measures in at just an inch to an inch and a half at maturity.(Orin)

This is a very hardy species.(agent A)

Color: tan, yellow, and green.

Native range: North Africa and Middle East .

Difficulty level: beginner.

Development:

Nymphs grow quickly and are easily reared in small cages. Bad molts are rare.(Orin)

Adult males live two to five months. After maturity is reached, females live as long as nine months and make six to twelve egg cases.(Orin)

Behavior/temperament

• Degree of activity
  
• Degree of aggression or timidity
  
• Propensity to cannibalize
  
• Dynamics of threat display
  

Captive Environment:

You dont have to keep them warmer than 70 degrees, and they'll reach maturity in 4 months. If you keep them at 85-90 degrees, nymphs can be adult in just 2 months.

This species can survive in a wide range of cages, from a simple deli cup to a tupperware container to a net cage, though that may be too much room for a tiny mantis.

Humidity needs only to be in the 30-50% range, and they require little misting. They can grasp almost anything though a mesh lid is recommended for molting from.(agent A)

• Temperature range and humidity levels
  
• Type and size of enclosure(s) used.
  
• Substrate or lack thereof
  
• Cage furnishings, e.g. molting surfaces, perches, décor, plants, etc.
  
• Communal housing if applicable
  

Feeding:

The nymphs are very vicious eaters and cannibalism is occasionally noticed as early as L1. L1 nymphs can handle melanogaster but take a few days to start eating, and thus should not be kept warmer than 75 degrees until they start eating to prevent their metabolism from being faster than their rate of feeding, as this will kill them.This species should not be kept in groups as they are vicious and cannibalistic, capable of handling hydei as early as L2/L3 crickets, roaches, flies, moths and bees are readily accepted by the larger nymphs and adults of this species.(agent A)

• Feeding response
  
• Type and size of prey used and/or refused for various instars
  
• Quantity and frequency of feedings
  

Breeding:

Males can be longer than the females but have larger wings and a more graceful build. Females will eat males, but a one gallon breeding container is big enough for a successful mating cage. Adult males live two to five months. After maturity is reached, females live as long as nine months and make six to twelve eggcases.(Orin)

Adults are not very long lived, males living anywhere between 2 and 4 months as adults, and females up to a year. Breeding can be attempted at 3 weeks for both sexes. As adults, males will eat a lot initially, but after 10 days into adulthood, they wont be as hungry and need only be fed once a week. Females should be fed daily, but due to their small size require very little food to fill. Before attempting to breed, it's recommended the adults be kept in separate rooms for a few days before attempting to breed, and they should both be introduced into a large cage. Males will promptly try to mount the female, and they seem to dart at her, rotating on her back 2 or 3 times in some cases. They will connect shortly afterward with connection lasting for 2-5 hours.(agent A)

• Sexing/sexual dimorphism (explanation of physical differences and/or adult sizes of the sexes)
  
• Time needed from last molt to copulation
  
• Tips: give us your methodology.
  
• Tips for inducing copulation and fecundity
  
• Tips for inducing female to lay oothecae
  

Oothecae:

Oothecae are an eighth of an inch wide and vary from a quarter to three quarters of an inch long and are light tan in color. They are usually laid on narrow twigs but can be formed on almost any surface. Twenty to seventy nymphs will hatch after thirty days.(Orin)

Females are very prolific and can lay large ooths every two weeks, which hatch 30-100 nymphs after 3-8 weeks. Incubation can be done at room temp with weekly misting. They have limited parthenogenic capability, and females produced via parthenogenesis don't always produce ooths.(agent A)

Optional

• Health Issues: infections or illnesses encountered.
  
• Additional Observations: pertinent information which doesn't neatly fit anywhere else.
  
• Photos: up to five may be posted at the bottom of the completed template. Please limit these photos to no more than one of an ootheca, two of nymphs(different instars), one of an adult female, and one of an adult male.
  

(photo: OM)

ok I guess I'll start here! so it doesn't look like I can edit the original, but I'll copy/paste and update as I go!

Miomantis paykullii (Egyptian Pygmy Mantis)

Introduction:

Miomantis paykullii has the classic mantis look but measures in at just an inch to an inch and a half at maturity.(Orin)

This is a very hardy species.(agent A)

Color: tan, yellow, and green.

Native range: North Africa and Middle East .

Difficulty level: beginner.

Development:

Nymphs grow quickly and are easily reared in small cages. Bad molts are rare.(Orin)

Adult males live two to five months. After maturity is reached, females live as long as nine months and make six to twelve egg cases.(Orin)

Behavior/temperament

• Degree of activity: relatively active, and will chase down prey
• Degree of aggression or timidity: will tackle very large prey
• Propensity to cannibalize: low during the first 2 instars but then ramps up afterwards
• Dynamics of threat display: these guys are pretty much just fleers, and don't seem to threat display. Be warned, adult males are adept fliers!

Captive Environment:

You don't have to keep them warmer than 70 degrees, and they'll reach maturity in 4 months. If you keep them at 85-90 degrees, nymphs can be adult in just 2 months.

This species can survive in a wide range of cages, from a simple deli cup to a tupperware container to a net cage, though that may be too much room for a tiny mantis.

Humidity needs only to be in the 30-50% range, and they require little misting. They can grasp almost anything though a mesh lid is recommended for molting from.(agent A)

• Temperature range and humidity levels: 70-100F, 30-50%
• Type and size of enclosure(s) used.: I would raise these in 16oz deli cups
• Substrate or lack thereof: I never use substrate (agent A)
• Cage furnishings, e.g. molting surfaces, perches, décor, plants, etc.: all of my containers are furnished with a piece of fake plant matter glued across the rim
• Communal housing if applicable: not recommended

Feeding:

The nymphs are very vicious eaters and cannibalism is occasionally noticed as early as i1. I1 nymphs can handle melanogaster but take a few days to start eating. This species should not be kept in groups as they are vicious and cannibalistic, capable of handling hydei as early as i2/3. Crickets, roaches, flies, moths and bees are readily accepted by the larger nymphs and adults of this species.(agent A)

• Feeding response: prompt, will chase down prey readily
• Type and size of prey used and/or refused for various instars: i1/2 D. melanogaster, i2/3, maybe onto 4 D. hydei, also recommend using very small crickets and roaches (like Compsodes schwarzi) for young and growing nymphs. Dietary variety is important for all generalist predators.
• Quantity and frequency of feedings: twice weekly

Breeding:

Males can be longer than the females but have larger wings and a more graceful build. Females will eat males, but a one gallon breeding container is big enough for a successful mating cage. Adult males live two to five months. After maturity is reached, females live as long as nine months and make six to twelve eggcases.(Orin)
As adults, males will eat a lot initially, but after 10 days into adulthood, they won't be as hungry and need only be fed once a week. Females should be fed daily, but due to their small size require very little food to fill. Before attempting to breed, it's recommended the adults be kept in separate rooms for a few days before attempting to breed, and they should both be introduced into a large cage. Males will promptly try to mount the female, and they seem to dart at her, rotating on her back 2 or 3 times in some cases. They will connect shortly afterward with connection lasting for 2-5 hours.(agent A)

• Sexing/sexual dimorphism (explanation of physical differences and/or adult sizes of the sexes): Female nymphs have a fairly obvious ovipositor even as young as i4
• Time needed from last molt to copulation: 3 days to about 2 weeks, dependent on temperature and feeding frequency
• Tips: give us your methodology.
• Tips for inducing copulation and fecundity
• Tips for inducing female to lay oothecae: plenty of good perches and a varied diet. Don't overfeed the female!

Oothecae:

Oothecae are an eighth of an inch wide and vary from a quarter to three quarters of an inch long and are light tan in color. They are usually laid on narrow twigs but can be formed on almost any surface. Twenty to seventy nymphs will hatch after thirty days.(Orin)

Females are very prolific and can lay large ooths every two weeks, which hatch 30-100 nymphs after 3-8 weeks. Incubation can be done at room temp with weekly misting. They have limited parthenogenic capability, and females produced via parthenogenesis don't always produce ooths.(agent A)

Optional

• Health Issues: infections or illnesses encountered.
• Additional Observations: pertinent information which doesn't neatly fit anywhere else.
• Photos: up to five may be posted at the bottom of the completed template. Please limit these photos to no more than one of an ootheca, two of nymphs(different instars), one of an adult female, and one of an adult male.