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Formosana basic care is 78-86 F (~25-30 C), 60% humidity (+/- 10) No real special needs. Flies, moths, crickets are all suitable food. They like to get really flat to the "ground" if spooked, and prefer twigs and leaves to blend in with. I believe you can *** with segment method beginning at...

Only if every European I had skipped a molt from different ooths at different times... so I doubt it. Oh and several are adult now so I have the whole molt history with no "missing instar"

I think it looks good. It might be a little on the large side right now (I haven't noticed Magnus yet to compare size) but since you are watching him so closely you'll know if he's struggling to find food so I think it's great. Let him try it out, if issues come up you can always fall back on...

Aryia is right that you might not need a heat source - but if you are like me you'll want one to feel better about the situation... even it turns out to be more of a security blanket than anything. For monitoring the heat, you should either get a cheap reptile thermometer and adjust it...

No sir, that by definition would not be overfeeding. Overfeeding is always bad. That's what makes it overfeeding. What you are describing is just giving them more food than the males. It's like the difference between having seconds and eating until your stomach rips open

You can certainly do that, just watch the abdomen size as you don't want them overeating

She's done molting, this is pretty much her for the rest of her life. She may however get physically stronger and become quite good with her left "hand" for example. But she won't ever molt again (you can tell because the wings are no longer just buds).

We do this with some species at least at younger stages, but haven't really found a difference. So I can't really say this is a better or worse idea. Your thoughts?

Easy rule of thumb on this one. Feed her until she rejects food (she will literally strike at it and/or threat display), then wait 2 days. So you are feeding her all she will take every three days. Simple as that! She can't overeat in a binge and she won't starve in between feedings so...

Hello and welcome from California's hat

Hi Sarah and welcome!

A few options: "Gotta mow lawns to save up for a gumball" budget http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002AQCPK Put that in your lamp. Monitor the temperature increase it provides and adjust the distance between the tote and the lamp until you are happy with it. IDGAF budget Add...

Here I previously took pictures of four different L4 M. Religiosa, from two different oothecae: http://soundspawn.com/browser.php?p=l4_euro

I had Europeans as young as L3 with the marks. I can show you an L4 with them today (same guys, they molted over the weekend). I'm pretty sure every Euro I've ever had was L3 when the markings appeared but I didn't pay much attention to it so I'm a little fuzzy on if there were exceptions that...

This was an answer to your original question. If you are still curious, the real answer would have to be broad... 2-8 weeks. It will vary by specie and early instars molt faster than later instars... so your L2 nymph may molt after two weeks, but by L5 that same mantid may take 3-4 weeks...

Yea I'm jumping on the bandwagon. I saw the picture and instantly thought "oh M. religiosa" then read you think it's certainly not and realized one of us is very wrong. I'm sticking to my guns, religiosa all the way. In another instar or so you should be able to see the signature bicep...

I personally see a majority of upside down molts, but some vertical molts also... Vertical molts seem to get wonky legs more often than others though... where they don't pull their back legs out of the molt entirely so those end up curved and longer. Subsequent molts tend to either fix or...

You are also in LA yes? Where humidity is locked at 60-70% 10 or 11 months out of the year? I get that this advice may work for you, but I really feel obligated to say you should keep in mind people may take your advice in situations not nearly as ideal as yours. This would be like saying "I...

They aren't great but really nothing consumer grade is (I'm not being snooty, my stuff is consumer grade too lol). It will probably be fairly accurate, like +/- 10% which is why shooting for that middle range is going to be a safe bet. 50% indoors is reasonable, I would believe that. You can...

I have gauges, stickers, and electronic sensors all over - my room is more like a lab though so I may not be the best example. I do strongly recommend you measure your temp/humidity though, as it's vital to a mantids health. For your mantis, 70 is a little high, you want 50-60% - it is okay to...