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I agree with Rick on the Carolina.com medium. They seem to be the cheapest. If you do use that medium though, mix a teaspoon of molasses in with the warm water before adding it. I get far more flies when doing that and the maggots eat most, if not all of the medium.

Never had a problem with this guy. Everything always arrives well packaged. Highly recommended by the *gag* mantis king.

You can use canning jars without the middle part of the lid. You can just use your fingers to hold the mesh down a bit while you twist off the top. Very easy, and not too expensive either. DeShawn

When keeping only a few mantids, most people want to have nice looking setups where they can show off their mighty beasts proudly. I am no stranger to the ghetto money saving techniques as you can see here http://www.mantiskingdom.com/setup.php (yes, even the milk jug!), but even I have a few...

I have used them too. Nothing but good experiences. Plus, they have a picture of a mantid on their front page, so they MUST be cool!

Jesse is correct. I am going through that right now (ran out of fruit flies AND money! AHHHHH). Some of the mantids will snack on their siblings, but most of them will die. L1 nymphs seem a little reluctant to munch on another mantid. It usually happens when one of the nymphs goes for food...

And for anyone wondering, the moths they become aren't much better... I have taken them out of my mantids diet altogether. They aren't bad as an occasional feeder, I just had no reason to raise them (they reproduce like crazy) if I didn't use them enough.

I agree with the room temperature. I raise all of my mantids under the same temperature (70-80°F). I just spray the ones that supposedly need more humidity a couple times a day. I do not use substrate because it is too much of a pain to deal with when keeping so many mantids. When I use to...

If you got it from my site, it would have had to have been from one of Evans caresheets. As for the humidifier, you can get it from Petco and many other pet stores. I bought mine off of ebay. I do not recommend it though, as it really is not needed. I was just like most beginners to exotic...

They are mesh containers that I use for mantids that have a hard time climbing plastic or glass as well as larger mantids. They come in sizes 12x12x12 and 15x15x22. Really good for mantids, and pretty decently priced too.

12x10 room... hmmm, how would I do it? Well, for starters... Kind of blurry, but you get the picture. I just finished setting this up a few days ago. I have added a few other things since then. I will take updated pics later when I get a bit more time.

:? Fogger? I don't use a fogger. The closest thing I have come to using one is the Tripic Aire humidifier.

I too would not suggest breeding it, but I see no reason to kill it off if it is doing just fine and you want to keep it. I have had a few females like that (mostly T. sinensis) and they lived just fine. I simply chose not to breed them because of the very reasons Leah and Jesse described...

That would have been my guess as well, especially with the not eating and the wing buds looking so fat. That is always a sure sign of a molt about to happen any day. How many pairs of T. sinensis do you have?

I do not use anything for any species. Just cups with mesh lid. For species that supposedly require higher humidy, I mist more often (once, maybe twice a day). I do not mist enough to where any water collects at the bottom. Feces and uneaten food items are dumped out every other day (feeding...

Hi Luuk, and welcome to the forums :) Most species of mantids will molt 8-12 days after hatching. It has a lot to do with how much they are fed. Well fed nymphs will molt a little faster. You can expect them to molt every 2 weeks for the first 3-4 molts, and then every 3-4 weeks during the...

I have heard of some species having favorable ratios of males or females. I was TOLD that G. gongylodes had a high female to male ratio, and S. pretiosa had a high male to female ratio. Out of the 5 pretiosa that I hatched, only 1 was female. Out of the 22 G. gongylodes that I can *** at the...

In my experience, humidity isn't always required to live, but at lower humidities, many mantids dry out too quickly during their molts and die as a result of getting caught in their skin. I have never kept any mantid below 40% humidity or above 70%. DeShawn notices too many mantids dying in...