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if they are very well fed they tend to run less. also if you stay quite still they will usually stay quite still on you. the more you move the more they move.

$120?! :o :o :rolleyes: anyway, nymphs are born sturdy, theres no reason why you cant get every single one to adulthood.

100C is way too hot, try 35-40C. i get my bulbs from pretty much anywhere (local supermarket, local poundshop, local hardware store etc), they are not special reptile/heat bulbs, just normal household lamp bulbs. wattage is not specific, but the higher the wattage then the hotter it will be...

foot long eh? :rolleyes: :P

from personal experience, p.paradoxa youngsters have VERY low mortality. if you really wanted to i reckon you could get every single hatchling to adult (im talking completely hypothetically, as in assuming you had enough space and food etc) with maybe just one or two deaths. maybe i just got a...

hard to say for sure but i really doubt it was for that reason, they are made to give good protection to the eggs inside and will withstand a surprising amount of rough handling. my p.o ooths this generation have been laid on twigs, branches, plastic, even mesh and i have pried them all off and...

you probably mean perpendicular to the floor as opposed to parrallel, which like rick says is fine for hatching. maybe i havent had enough ooths laid but i have never had one layed that wasnt in an ok position to hatch (maybe some are in less than ideal places but they will still hatch ok). also...

great sequence!

i think phyll means leaf as opposed to sheet but its a similar idea i guess. i think phyllium is a leaf insect genus? i could be wrong but that would make more sense. also stuff with "ocell" usually has something to do with eyes, i dont know if that wa smentioned already.

i only recently started up a culture so can't really answer 3 or 5 as most of my information is gleaned from stuff i found on the web, so i would just be parroting. as for number 2, i have not tried it firsthand but in hindsight i think thermobia would have been a great feeder food for...

i cannot give any suggestions however i had pretty much the same thing that you described happen to one of my mantids. it started when i fed one of my g.gongylodes a butterfly i caught outside one day. it snapped it up and ate it no problem. however for about a week after it would hang very low...

i'm not quite sure what you mean but if he is eating at all on his own then thats a good sign. and if not, like i said there is always the option of hand-feeding (when you put a juicy bit of prey up to his mouth, he starts to eat and eventually should take over and grab the prey from you. i'm...

these kinds of problems (missing/wonky bits afrter moulting) can only be fixed through successive moults. as long as he can catch and eat food then he should eventually make it to the next moult and get the chance to fix himself up a bit. as for making him stronger, i dont think theres anything...

nice photos, thats some great detail for such small mantids! thats also a very quick incubation if the laid date is correct. mine all took around 30 days to hatch. as for moult times, i found with a good food supply and fairly warm (29/30C average) mine began moulting on the 7th day after...

its fine. i would do the same only the soil in my area has a very high clay content and is not really suitable. but there is no danger. i think some people suggest microwaving soil from outside for a little bit before introducing it, to kill off pests and unwanted bugs and whatnot but thats up...

i agree.

to decide which species they are you have to look at the pronotum/shield. if it is wider than it is long, it is probably p.wahlbergii. if it is about as wide as it is long (like a diamond type shape) then it is p.ocellata. if you search the forum you will probably find a thread with pictures of...