Alright I'll take a crack at this, I have a mantid book in front of me, websites, and my experience so far to respond with. I have responded with links to sources of the information, as merely saying it is that way doesn't provide any proof; however, as many pages can be long you will have to do a search on the page (usually CTRL F to find it). Of course if you have a large bankroll and don't care to possibly kill the mantids in a attempt to raise them, feel free to do so no one can stop you. Seems many lately will want to try the advanced species first so it will add another notch on their belt as the mantid was advanced care.
I personally prefer to avoid such mantids even now as I do not find the extra care and requirements are worth my time and effort when so many other wonderful species are available.
Mantids are listed by species as beginners, intermediate, advanced, or even expert care required. This is based from the mantids required temperatures, humidity levels, choices of feeders, habitat requirements, ventilation needed, their ease of molting, if the mantid is a hardy species or delicate, difficulty in breeding, and possibly other related factors specific to a species - such as sensitivity to changes/fluctuation of humidity or temperatures can harm/kill them, require certain feeders, and much more but rarely come up unless encountered (and more advanced species even less so as less keepers have them).
One quick thing is that mantid keepers with much experience with a particular advanced species will continue to have some trouble with a particular species. It's not to say that they are not providing the proper care and learning from mistakes, it is simply a fact that some mantids are that difficult and delicate/fragile (with many unknown out of their control).
Taking a look at temperatures, the beginner species can be kept at ideal temps in the 72-78 degree Fahrenheit range. Species such Miomantis paykullii want the temperature in the 75-85 F range. Orchids (Hymenopus coronatus)
should be kept in the 77-95 F range, with 82 F being best during the day - at night 64 F or more. Wandering violin mantis (Gongylus gongylodes) need a basking spot in their habitat of 95-100 F range, with the rest of their habitat much cooler so they do not overheat. The Idolomantis diabolica
want near 100 F during the day, and about 68 F at night. A 10-15 F drop in temperatures at night is good for the majority of mantids as it more closely simulates nature, and helps them mature and especially in breeding - as many require very specific temperatures for breeding to occur. Something to point out is that a breeze from a open window or even a breifly opened door can change the temperature to a "extreme" amount that a more advanced species may not be able to cope with it.
Looking at humidity requirements beginner species tend to hover around 55% RH. Which is typical in most houses or close enough, until winter and heating is used. Steam humidifiers are preferred choice to raise humidity from the winter 5-10% RH back to near 50% RH, or more as needed. Orchids (Hymenopus coronatus) need 60-80% RH, and
are sensitive to changes in it. The Idolomantis diabolica requires "
high air humidity" with misting in the evening hours.
Ventilation beyond a open covered mesh top for beginner species becomes a concern at the intermediate level species and up. Miomantis paykullii who are over-misted can develop
bacterial problems, which is also a concern for all species really. Habitats can become a breeding ground for mold/fungus/bacteria growth and is one contributor to unknown mantid deaths - which is due to high humidity and inadequate ventilation. Orchids (Hymenopus coronatus) are said to do better in a all mesh net container to provide better ventilation. In that regard though the 60-80% RH levels will be more difficult to control. Idolomantis diabolica require cross-ventilation (multiple ventilation areas around the habitat, the side and top, or even a mesh or all net habitat) otherwise they can fall over dead from suffocation.
Some mantids require even certain feeders, otherwise some will starve to death. Most beginner species will happily eat both crawling and flying insects (crickets, cockroaches, GB/BB flies, moths, etc.) so it is not a concern for them. Orchids (Hymenopus coronatus)
are fed a diet of houseflies and BB flies, with the occasional wild butterfly and hover flies caught to supplement their diet. Wandering violin mantis (Gongylus gongylodes) eat flying prey only as well, and in-particular are best
fed primarily moths. Idolomantis diabolica can eat many various types of prey - however they are
best fed only flies as other prey can be harmful to them. Also this species must eat every day, if it goes more than
2 days without food it will die. There are many mantid species that are documented on the forum that have gone one or even two weeks without care or feed - that should speak volumes of their care. In that regard raising cultures of various feeders is not only recommended, it is almost required to give the mantid proper care (and you are sure of the feeders diet and health, as this can lead to mantid deaths too).
Next is the vain of keeping mantids, molting issues, as even under the best care and conditions it can occur (seemly it is the last molt to adulthood that is the hardest to take). Typically the beginner species will have low mis-molts (molting issues) under many circumstances. The Orchid (Hymenopus coronatus) nymphs however require it on the
drier side of their humidity to properly molt, with adults on the wetter side. Wandering violin mantis (Gongylus gongylodes) need higher than normal humidity levels as they prepare to molt, so they have to be watched carefully to figure out when this is to occur. Idolomantis diabolica, feeder in their habitats
before/during a molt, "will greatly disturb this skittish mantis and will disrupt correct molting." This is true for all mantids in some regard, as feeders such as crickets can eat helpless molting mantids.
It goes on to say this about Idolomantis, "This species is one of the hardest species to keep, many times molt or unknown reasons will cause all Idolomantis nymphs to die before adulthood."
I'll just make a quick note on habitats/decorations. Nymph mantids of any species are best to be kept in a near empty habitat, in regard to any decoration, with a stick (if you have to have it) nearly straight vertically to help prevent any mis-molts. The more advanced species require lots of mesh and stick material properly placed for the best chances of successful molts. For example the
Wandering violin mantis (Gongylus gongylodes) and
Idolomantis diabolica need habitats that look more like a carefully crafted stick box by a bird more than a mantid habitat.
There are many other points and things to consider as well. I will leave that up to you to continue searching for yourself, and some details may have to be asked directly to veteran mantid keepers and breeders of the species in question - especially if you decide to keep a advanced mantid.
I've found
on this page, they list Orchids (Hymenopus coronatus) as the, "epitome of every beginner's collection"; however, from the care information I've found and those who have kept the species, they are typically not recommended for beginners. Perhaps the author of the statement is saying after all the other beginner species a keeper has kept, the Orchid is the last one before for the more advanced care species.
There are many other guides and details on the forum itself, books by Orin (it is recommended you
buy his more advanced mantid book and read it before even deciding to consider keeping a advanced or expert care mantid), and online as well.
Keep in mind if you are unable to find your mantid proper feeders, buy them, your feeder cultures crash, or shipping gets delayed - the advanced species will not survive, with Idolo going only 2 days without. This is one simple thing that keeps me from wanting to bother with such a species, let alone all the other specific requirements. Sure a individual may make it another day or two beyond that time frame without food; however it is likely to have done harm that it will not fully recover from.
You can usually quickly tell how difficult a mantid species is purely by price, as the more advanced mantids are hard to breed in any numbers and kept by so few. Sure supply/demand (with beauty falling into demand) play a role too, but if you are seeing a species that is $15 or under that is a good indicator that it is a easy/easier species to keep. Prices in the $25-$40 range are usually the more intermediate species, and anything more is the expert species.
Here's a except from a mantid book I own on which are good beginners species (with duplicates removed...)
The Sphodromantis species are very popular and readily available in the pet trade. These include: African mantis, Giant African mantises, African lined mantis, Congo Green mantis, Common Green mantis.
Large numbers of various Hierodula species from Asia are available, as are the Rhombodera species that are typically named the Shield, Hood, and Leaf mantis. The Ghost mantid and Flower mantid species are also excellent for "newbies".
Also when shopping from online store like
BugsInCyberspace.com,
MantisPets.com, and
MantisPlace.com - mantids listed for sale usually state the keepers experience level recommended for their care. So you can find out if the
available mantids are in the proper care level - with many mantids passing in and out of availability it is hard to keep a current or set list.
