Ponder Portrait newly L8

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Digger

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I really need to get a handle on stacking (hello October Rainne - Are you there??). This was shot @ f/16 and DOF is still far too shallow.

ponder_L8-portrait.JPG


 
Ponder is getting big!

Stacked shots are nice but I find it too hard to do with mantids because they move so much. I tried using stacking software and didn't like the results and gave up. Some of the best stacked shots are done by people with a lot of patience or with dead stock. There are some amazing stacked shot images of insects out there. Sometimes I wish I could stack my L1 images though. It's really hard to get the head in focus and the legs closest to the camera in focus. Some of those little legs are so long and stick out.

I don't think that all parts of the insect need to be in focus for it to be a nice image though. Sometimes the way the mantis is posing makes it easier for you to get more of it in focus. For portraits of mantids, sometimes it's nice to get the head and the forelegs (raptors) in focus at the same time and then not worry about the rest of the body.

It's nice to see you taking pictures with your DSLR again...at least I think you did.

 
Thank you Patricia!

Tammy, yes, this is with my Canon 50D / 100mm f/2.8 macro. Experimented with 3200 ISO so I could bring the aperture down to f/16. One trouble with this shot is lack of light. Need to set up a mini studio with some serious lighting. That'll help close the aperture further and add dof. I agree that stacking must be very difficult with live specimens. But I'm in awe of October Rainne's work and would like to try to emulate that quality.

 
Is ponder male or female? I don't think I ever asked

I agree 100% the stacking softwares are of no use unless you are using a tripod with a stationary object,I shoot handheld and have to manual stack 2 pics then add on a pic every time in photo shop,sometimes up to 10+,I will definitely make a tutorial on how I stack if people would like me to. Just make sure you shoot pics that are at the same angle and length away,so here you'd have to shoot the head,the neck area,maybe so some of the antennas and single out the nose or mouth,the closer you shoot to them,the more pics you will need to stack as the shallower the DOF on most lenses becomes

Do you have Photo Shop? That you will definitely need for stacking. Females are always easier to stack as tend to keep legs in same spots more often until they clean,even from far away I have to be sure to shoot different parts of the legs and then each toe section to get those sharp,it is a lot of work but I believe it pays off,beats getting just the head or 2 front legs in focus close up

 
Also drop your iso,it will knock down the graininess and shoot on manual as then you can lock the focus and just move the camera in and out so you don't lose your position forgot to include that. If you do stack you can shoot on much lower F stops as you will be combining areas anyways and won't need to jack up the depth. I'm just using giant hardwear spot lights with blue/white bulbs rather than yellow,really cheap and super effective as subjects are small,I did buy a soft box and use those tiny lamps as well,you can find those on Adorama for under 50$ as a package deal or more if you need bigger,The soft box is not a must,the lamps I really like just be extra careful as they get really hot

 
OctoberRainne, that would be nice if you put together a thread on stacking in the photography forum.

Digger, when I do macro work indoors, I shoot 100 - 200 ISO. But I'm shooting in manual mode with a flash. If you haven't tried shooting in manual mode, give it a try. It's also easier to get more in focus when they are in this position. (Don't mean to hijack your thread. So, I'm posting the smallest size I can link to from my site.)

IMG_2013-03-11_6491-S.jpg


 
Exactly I do the same as Miss Wolfe,inside I shoot with flash and iso locked on 200 as get it fairly bright in the other room. The farther away you start the shot the more will be in focus every time,that 100mm lens will let you back up a lot more which is good for full shots. Did you shoot Ponders face shot with the lens all the way out and closest it would go? I know when you use a lens that close you usually need to use a stronger diffuser,and foam plate seems best to me,doesn't even matter if you bend it up trying to get the shot as it will lighten and avoid that lens end shadow and you can just make a new one. Just trace the lens face circumference over the center of the plate and cut it out. I put tape around the edges to make it stay on better and fill up some space,and then you can use lots of flash and not have it disappear when you are ontop of them,another low budget tip that is well worth it. just put it over the moving end of the lens,the 100s are quite long anyways so stays in place better than on the tiny 50s

 
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Great feedback from everybody. Ponder is a female. Yes, I shoot manual a lot. And I almost never push iso [asa in my day :) ] beyond 800 (mostly 100 - 400). This was just an off the cuff quick experiment. Lighting was simply a tungsten desk lamp. The camera was on a tripod and i had a remote release in use.

October - if you could find the time to put up your PS method, I bet a lot of members here would be really interested. I know I would. Tammy - yeah, shooting with my 580EX II would have brought better light. I was just too lazy. I do realize I need to buckle down and set up my mantid studio with a dedicated space for efficient lighting/diffusion, back drops and such.

 
Definitely will post one in the near future,The more light you can get on them the better,and Ponder looks so different than all of mine,I like how they each get their own variation,I will have budwings in the near future for those who missed out when they came back this year :)

 

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