Have a few of these and they're about L4 or so. So far most of them have had a molting issue. The molt goes fine except the two back legs get stuck in the old skin about halfway. I have never seen something like this happen over and over again with any mantids. Only these. Anyone else have this issue with this species?
Texas Unicorn Issue
- Thread starter Rick
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Rick,
Just a few of mine as they were growing up did that, and all of those were male.
I've got several adult males and females (one male with a bum leg as well from a mismolt) but it seems to me to be best for them, to up-end two of the tallest insect cups together to make a foot-tall tower (line the two individual cups with window screen too). Keep them fairly humid in there and if they ever hang out in the bottom keep pushing them up in the top. if they molt up there they'll more than likely be fine. At least that's worked for me - I use this same method for any of the big, leggy species: Tenodera, Heirodula, etc. (although to be fair it failed miserably with Pseudempusa)
It seems like a lot of work for the smaller Texas Unicorn instars but it makes a big difference to them - they don't seem to molt right on the cloth insect cup lid material even when they're little.
I hope that helps!
~Jon
Just a few of mine as they were growing up did that, and all of those were male.
I've got several adult males and females (one male with a bum leg as well from a mismolt) but it seems to me to be best for them, to up-end two of the tallest insect cups together to make a foot-tall tower (line the two individual cups with window screen too). Keep them fairly humid in there and if they ever hang out in the bottom keep pushing them up in the top. if they molt up there they'll more than likely be fine. At least that's worked for me - I use this same method for any of the big, leggy species: Tenodera, Heirodula, etc. (although to be fair it failed miserably with Pseudempusa)
It seems like a lot of work for the smaller Texas Unicorn instars but it makes a big difference to them - they don't seem to molt right on the cloth insect cup lid material even when they're little.
I hope that helps!
~Jon
I have had it happen also, to both male and female. The last female molted with one bum leg. Yen do they need extra moisture? :mellow:
Their conditions are likely not the cause. I don't really need any help I just thought I would ask if this was happening to anyone else. But they're kept in 32 oz deli cups with a bit of slightly moist spahgnum moss at the bottom.
Andrew
Well-known member
I think I have only had two mismolts with this species. My last male when molting to subadult, and one adult female who had a messed up leg and ruffly wings. I raised them in a large screen cage until subsub/subadult.
Mine molted well in low humidity. I usually gave them alot of water to drink manually before a molt. Almost all insect/arachnids molt by secreting fluid right underneath the old skin. Most of that liquid is made up of water.
My breeding stock from oothecae did well from L1 to L7 under warm temp. and moderate humidity, 85-90F/60% and mist them with water only once every 3-5 days. No casualty from mismolting. The problem then started on the last molt, from the first 4 adults, i have 2 with messed up wings on last molt. So i increased the misting (thus humidity) and the rest molted out alright (keeping the same temperaure). I keep it the same way on the first generation and there are only few mismolting issues especially on the last molt. As i am not breeding this anymore i am letting all my 2nd generation go, so far some had reach L4 without molting issues. This is based on my own experience. (Assumming all the existing Texas unicorn mantis among us is originally from my breeding stock)
Note: this species is originally from Brownsville, Texas which receives lot of rain during Summer months, and the town is also close to GOM so higher humidity is expected.
Note: this species is originally from Brownsville, Texas which receives lot of rain during Summer months, and the town is also close to GOM so higher humidity is expected.
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Interesting point, maybe I'll increase the ferquency of misting a bit too.
By the way - I used pantyhose as a screen, but the young nymphs somehow preffered to molt from branches. From L4 upwards they started molting from the screen - no issues at all.
By the way - I used pantyhose as a screen, but the young nymphs somehow preffered to molt from branches. From L4 upwards they started molting from the screen - no issues at all.
The spagnum moss in the bottom may be your problem. Long-term high humidity without airflow causes mantids to lose more internal moisture through respiration which can cause them to dehydrate rapidly with minor drops in the humidity. Sprayed water should dry up within a short period and it increases hydration (they can drink it) without causing an unsafe humidity.
Mantida
Well-known member
Wow Orin, I never knew that.
That explains why my mantids always molt fine.
The water I spray dries up in about 15-30 minutes.
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joossa
Well-known member
Well, come to think of it - a guy that I know was keeping his T. sinensis in a tank with poor ventilation and at a high humidity - nymphs were doing well until it was molting time - 3/4 of them mismolted, most of them beyond rescue. I don't mist my Texicorns too often, once in a week maybe - no mismolts.
Joossa - em... we all lose water due to respiration.
Joossa - em... we all lose water due to respiration.
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joossa
Well-known member
Not at the cellular level. Water is a product of cellular respiration.
At the cellular level:
Breathing:
When humidity drops, spiracles close and conserve water. So, how does dehyradtion occur when spiracles are closed?
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"When humidity drops, spiracles close and conserve water."
So, would that mean that if the humidity is higher, spiracles are open and it may cause the loss of water?
Sorry - I'm majoring in English, I'm not a good biologist
So, would that mean that if the humidity is higher, spiracles are open and it may cause the loss of water?
Sorry - I'm majoring in English, I'm not a good biologist
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On your first point try an internet search for "water loss and respiration", there's a libary of online research about invertebrate respirartory water loss. (I'm assuming your cellular respiration 'confusion' is not just an attempt at being silly).
On your second point, mantids adapt to their environment which is what causes the problem, not an excuse against it. If you really think that the animals' adaptations to changes in humidity and moisture are even close to perfect then 0-100% humidity would make no difference in captivity (nor would any other husbandry parameter affect them since their ability to adapt to changes is by your standards apparently absolute).
