Cilnia humeralis trouble (part 2)

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No, I have not talked to Carey yet. I am going to do that ASAP.

I am very interested in how her's are doing and hope she will be honest with me.

I have heard some breaders say that they would not try these again because they die

almost right after their adult molt.

Never had that problem. It was always more of an issue trying to get them to mate successfully without the females eating the males prematurley, or the females laying infertile ooths while the males rode on there backs for awhile.

P.S. you have a lot more experience then I, so every thing you say is helpful to me ;)
I'm sure Carey will be honest with you. She is a sweethart! :)

I know some of the things i say may sound foolish, or even down right ridiculous at times, but i would not bring them up if i had not witnessed these strange occurrences more than once! ;)

 
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Great news!! I am so happy.

I came home and smashed up 3 crickets (sans the legs).

Got her out of her cube w/o a struggle (she got right on my hand) and fed her the cricket

smash with a chop stick.

She was very eager and happy to eat it and didnt have to move her arms, I put it right up to her

mouth so all she had to do was chew!!

She ate a good amount, about one large cricket's worth before pushing it away.

I put her back in her cube with a nice green fake tree.

Will continue the hand feedings until her raptorial arms are strong enough to hold her own food.

She is starting to act like a normal mantis now :)

The appearence of a good apitite is a very good sign, but she is not completly out of the woods

quite yet.

I will watch her for any regurgitation and just leave her alone and quiet.

She is so sweet and cooperative.

 
Hi there

I'm not an expert by any means, but I've had a C.humeralis die on me, and raised one successfully to sub-adult so just thought I would share my experience for anyone that is having issues.

Humidity is a killer for this species. 50% is way too high, my first died from humidity and the symptoms he had are the same as you are describing. After much contact with the breeder who had gone through many trial and error experiments to find the best environment (since there is so much conflicting advice to be found) we've found that the lower the humidity the better. I spray the sand at the bottom of my terrarium lightly, once a week. I've never had any problems with moults, feeding or illness doing this. She seems very happy at around 85 degrees too.

Regards, Jo

 
THANK YOU FOR POSTING THIS!

i have been trying to solve this problem.

This happened to my old C. Gemmatus!

She never molted to adult and would never eat.(Which lead me to think she was going to molt!)

Then they stop moving as much.

Then they suddenly die! after weeks of refusing food.

Im happy yours lived

Good Luck with them in the future,

Alex

 
Hi there

I'm not an expert by any means, but I've had a C.humeralis die on me, and raised one successfully to sub-adult so just thought I would share my experience for anyone that is having issues.

Humidity is a killer for this species. 50% is way too high, my first died from humidity and the symptoms he had are the same as you are describing. After much contact with the breeder who had gone through many trial and error experiments to find the best environment (since there is so much conflicting advice to be found) we've found that the lower the humidity the better. I spray the sand at the bottom of my terrarium lightly, once a week. I've never had any problems with moults, feeding or illness doing this. She seems very happy at around 85 degrees too.

Regards, Jo
That's very interesting.

All the care lists I have read on cilnia recommends a 50 to 60% humidity!! your temp jives with what I

have read however.

I mist mine every day, and the room RH is about 50%, but they are in net cubes, which get a lot of

ventilation.

How do you know for sure it was the humidity that killed your mantis?

 
THANK YOU FOR POSTING THIS!

i have been trying to solve this problem.

This happened to my old C. Gemmatus!

She never molted to adult and would never eat.(Which lead me to think she was going to molt!)

Then they stop moving as much.

Then they suddenly die! after weeks of refusing food.

Im happy yours lived

Good Luck with them in the future,

Alex
That is exactly what is happening now with my violin.

I had 5, now only one, and it will die soon from starvation.

If I can get the cilnia (I have only 2) past that last molt to adult, they are fine and normal.

 
High humidity without proper ventilation for any species can be a killer. My Cilnia are kept 60 to 70% humidity with no issues. I admit it is kinda high, but I'm paranoid of miss molts. Once they are adults they are kept lower than 50% humidity. Also keep in mind when keeping mantids in high humidity, clean there enclosures often. If you let mold, and bacteria grow. Then your just asking for trouble.

 
I have both of my cilnia in 12'' net cubes with 50% room RH (3 humidifiers going 24/7).

Their temp is in the 80's day and mid to high 60's night.

I vauum the poop and feeder insect remains out weekly ;)

 
That is exactly what is happening now with my violin.

I had 5, now only one, and it will die soon from starvation.

If I can get the cilnia (I have only 2) past that last molt to adult, they are fine and normal.
If your violin's are dying from starvation why dont you try raising the heat. They wil stop feeding when it gets to cold.

 
If your violin's are dying from starvation why dont you try raising the heat. They wil stop feeding when it gets to cold.
Too late, they are all dead now.

I kept them between 80 and 85F and use a laser therometer to monitor

actual temps inside cages.

Should they have been hotter?

 
no, no hotter. 80-85 seems fine to me. heck, my Idolos are eating fine with temps at only 78F durring the day.

I am moving them to my exoteras shortly...one just washed out, two more to go.

Harry

 
The temps were cooler at night, maybe that is what killed them!?

That cant happen anymore because a now have 2 tower ceramic thermostated heaters going

24/7.

The temps are still lower at night, but not much.

 

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