Was wondering if there is any techniques for preserving the colour of a fresh dead specimen? It's too late now, but species which are white/biege in my case, Pseudocreobotra and Blepharopsis have both turned brown (and in somebits black) in my pinning specimen, is there anyway to preserve the white in these 2 species?
corpse discolouration
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joossa
Well-known member
I am not sure about light colored specimens. When I pin mine, I make sure not to let any direct light (from any light souce) come in contact with the spcimen, especially during the two week period it takes to dry them.
Some times, it's more of a hit and miss type thing. Most of the time many get darker, and some even turn completely black and rot. Other times they keep their original color, though.
Some times, it's more of a hit and miss type thing. Most of the time many get darker, and some even turn completely black and rot. Other times they keep their original color, though.
i think alot of it depends on why they died. i had an idolomantis adult male that died after being fed (probably bad) crickets and it turned black and soft and smelt reaaalllly bad. other mantids that have died of apparent infection have rotted in similar ways. likewise i have a g.gongylodes adult female that died of old age and to this day (its been at least a year) she looks pretty much exactly as how she died, except for obviously darker eyes.
as for the original question, i have no idea. however, i don't think this discolouration in lighter specimens can be helped. all the pseudocreobotras in the nhm collection had some discolouration or dulling, and i assume at least some of those are pinned by professionals.
Specimens turn darker most of the time. However, if you want to inhibit this process as good as possible, there are several techniques, which aren't always available to anyone. Most have something to do with quick desiccation, as rotting is only possible when water is available.
1. Preserve the mantid in alcohol for some days. Disadvantage: green color vanishes, but rotting is prohibited.
2. Don't let the mantid die a natural death, as rotting starts immediately when the animal dies, before you see and remove it. If you want to pin a mantid, kill it under controled conditions. If you see the mantid getting old and loose tarsi, sometimes hanging on just a few legs for some days, this is the moment to do it.
3. In females: remove the abdominal guts. Don't scratch a lot, though, as damaging the muscles will destroy the color.
4. Dry it quickly after pinning. Three methods are applied: i. a ventilated oven around 50° C for about 4 hours, repeated twice. If the oven isn't ventilated it doesn't work properly. ii. silica gel, in which the pinning board is sealed for one or two weeks. You need a box larger than the pinning board and a lot of silica gel. iii. the most elaborate method, available only to the ones with either a lot of space and/or money: a vacuum freeze drier. It yealds the best results, but who can afford one?
1. Preserve the mantid in alcohol for some days. Disadvantage: green color vanishes, but rotting is prohibited.
2. Don't let the mantid die a natural death, as rotting starts immediately when the animal dies, before you see and remove it. If you want to pin a mantid, kill it under controled conditions. If you see the mantid getting old and loose tarsi, sometimes hanging on just a few legs for some days, this is the moment to do it.
3. In females: remove the abdominal guts. Don't scratch a lot, though, as damaging the muscles will destroy the color.
4. Dry it quickly after pinning. Three methods are applied: i. a ventilated oven around 50° C for about 4 hours, repeated twice. If the oven isn't ventilated it doesn't work properly. ii. silica gel, in which the pinning board is sealed for one or two weeks. You need a box larger than the pinning board and a lot of silica gel. iii. the most elaborate method, available only to the ones with either a lot of space and/or money: a vacuum freeze drier. It yealds the best results, but who can afford one?
With my other mantids (Phyllocrania, Deroplatys and Phyllovates), they've all kept their colours apart from the lighter ones (BLepharopsis and Pseudocreobotra) thanks for the great tips/info Christian, will try the silica gel method next time.
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I'm not very good at pinning my mantids. I think killing an adult prematurely is probably the best option for getting a perfect specimen with all limbs and tarsi intact.
I'm not very good at pinning my mantids. I think killing an adult prematurely is probably the best option for getting a perfect specimen with all limbs and tarsi intact.
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I gut all of mine now. Slice open the side of the abdomen and carefully remove the contents. Once you have removed everything, pack the abdomen with cotton. Then cover the specimen for a couple days in ordinary NaCl. The salt wicks away moisture and the cotton preserves the original shape of the abdomen. And yes, the cotton must always remain in place. It's messy, delicate work, but it does help keep those bright colors!
Now, how many people just read that and said "Eeeewwwwww!!!" ?
By the way Chun, those are some nice specimens you have shown in the photo!!
Now, how many people just read that and said "Eeeewwwwww!!!" ?
By the way Chun, those are some nice specimens you have shown in the photo!!
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:blink: ME!
Salt has the same effect as silica gel, the latter is somewhat better and re-activatable.
Filling the abdomen with cotton isn't always necessary, from a scientific point of view you just need it if the adbomen is heavily deformed after removal of the guts (and ovaries). There are also different opinions about whether to dissect the insect ventrally or at the side. As with genitalia preparation, people have their own preferencies regarding this point.
Filling the abdomen with cotton isn't always necessary, from a scientific point of view you just need it if the adbomen is heavily deformed after removal of the guts (and ovaries). There are also different opinions about whether to dissect the insect ventrally or at the side. As with genitalia preparation, people have their own preferencies regarding this point.
I open the side as it is easier and safer. There is a nice large area of soft tissue between the plates. I have seen specimens that were opened at the base of the abdomen and they were very well done. But my fingers are not that good at delicate work!
joossa
Well-known member
True, males usually do not need to be opened up. But I have had a few males rot as well. So if your male's abdomen is very thin and flat, he should dry well. If his abdomen is thick and "squishy", you might want to gut him just in case.
asdsdf
Coolest Member
:blink: Wow...Skilled people.
Butterfly
Well-known member
Wow indeed.
I dont think I'll try preserving Mantids after reading this,
I dont want to cut into them and gut em, eeewwwww! :blink:
lol I can be squeamish once in a while, I am a girl after all.
I'll just stick to buying preserved butterflies from Ebay, lol.
I dont think I'll try preserving Mantids after reading this,
I dont want to cut into them and gut em, eeewwwww! :blink:
lol I can be squeamish once in a while, I am a girl after all.
I'll just stick to buying preserved butterflies from Ebay, lol.
