Demo of the resin casting process

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Fisherman_Brazil

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Demo of the resin casting process

Prepare the dried specimen, done best after immediate dead of the specimen

1. prepare the dried specdimen

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2. weight the resin depaending on the right proportion provided by the anufacturer

P1011089.jpg


3. pulling the mixed A and B parts resin and waiting for curing

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For this particular case, I use proportion of A 100: B 40 ratio by weight, and wait for about 10 hours to set, yielding very good result.

 
How do you dry them? I remember your others looking fantastic when done.

 
The best result can be obtained when the specimen is still "fresh", but more or less, coloring can not be preserved perfectly.

It is relatively easy to do, just purchase the neccessary Epoxy resin (A) which always comes with hardener ( B) . Read the instruction for proportion, then you are there.

 
But how do you dry them? Just pin them in the desired position and let them dry out?

 
But how do you dry them? Just pin them in the desired position and let them dry out?
Good question, Rick. I do not particularly dry them.

This also puzzled me for a long time. What I tried to do is to isolated the speimen away from ambient, with hope the decomposition process will be terminated. Many people find out remove the inside and clean with alcohol will help. Again, it is try and error, and I have found, as I said the earlier the sooner we put in resin, the result is better.

 
Good question, Rick. I do not particularly dry them.This also puzzled me for a long time. What I tried to do is to isolated the speimen away from ambient, with hope the decomposition process will be terminated. Many people find out remove the inside and clean with alcohol will help. Again, it is try and error, and I have found, as I said the earlier the sooner we put in resin, the result is better.
Thanks. Seems easy. I may see if I can purchase the resin.

 
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Ooh that’s slightly different to the way I have done my 1st few Luke.

The instructions that came with my water clear casting set say that the specimen needs to be dipped in acetone to clean it, then to coat with unmixed resin leaving overnight before making the paperweight

Here are 2 of mine

Mummy Idolo

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Orchid

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Hi Luke,

Thanks for sharing. I see that you are using normal plastic container to hold the form of the resin. Won't the resin stick to the plastic container? I am assuming I can get the epoxy resin at Home Depot? Or can I just get it in regular Craft Store?

-Chun Yee Poh-

 
Ooh that’s slightly different to the way I have done my 1st few Luke.The instructions that came with my water clear casting set say that the specimen needs to be dipped in acetone to clean it, then to coat with unmixed resin leaving overnight before making the paperweight
Great job you have there Criag.

I was not sure if I would use any chemical that could possibly affect the coloring. And now we have an answer as it seems.

 
Hi Luke,Thanks for sharing. I see that you are using normal plastic container to hold the form of the resin. Won't the resin stick to the plastic container? I am assuming I can get the epoxy resin at Home Depot? Or can I just get it in regular Craft Store?

-Chun Yee Poh-
Chun,

I do not live in the States for many years. But sure enough you will them all out soon at any hardware store. Any food container will do, but since we don't want any mark left, so have to take a good look at the interior wall before using. I have found many Japanese containers actually do a very fine job for me.

 
Hi Luke,Thanks for sharing. I see that you are using normal plastic container to hold the form of the resin. Won't the resin stick to the plastic container? I am assuming I can get the epoxy resin at Home Depot? Or can I just get it in regular Craft Store?

-Chun Yee Poh-
Hi Chun. I'm guessing that the styrofoam should be easy to pop or peel off of the hardened resin. Is this correct, Luke?

 
Hi Chun. I'm guessing that the styrofoam should be easy to pop or peel off of the hardened resin. Is this correct, Luke?
Really no releasing agent of any kind will be needed! Modern technology make this a miracle, as the surface has been mirror polishing, so all you have to do is just find the right material made. It is about right if you feel it is flexible.

 
I have previously done a lot of resin casting but only on a small matchbox type scale. If it's jewelery casting resin two part that you mix then it produces heat when setting that will discolor the mantis. The bigger it is the more heat will be produced.

I found that thin layers painted on 'hairy' bugs and let dry before setting in the block, it's possible to get rid of almost all air bubbles that cling to hairs etc. I also found it near impossible to get the insect to look like it was in a natural pose - unless you support it while drying and set in layers before each one sets properly. Wait too long and you have visible layers on the horizontal.

I also found that jewelery casting resin melted certain plastic likes macdonalds straws, some Styrofoam cups, some cheap water bottles. Any plastic like ice cube trays or tupperware was really good for easy releases when set.

Hope that helps, partially setting resin dripping about is impossible to clean of carpets etc

 

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