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Do butterfly cages = net cages? Also, how many "ooths" can be hatched in each screen cage or 10 gallon?

When you say L3, is that after the 2nd molt? I've been reading some other posts trying to glean information, but apparently i'm not doing terribly well.

 
Do butterfly cages = net cages? Also, how many "ooths" can be hatched in each screen cage or 10 gallon?When you say L3, is that after the 2nd molt? I've been reading some other posts trying to glean information, but apparently i'm not doing terribly well.
Butterfly cages are basically net cages. I'd say about 3-4 can be hatched in a 10 gallon. I don't usually let them cannibalize down to ten, but keep the "toughies" that are active, hunting, and vigorous at L3.

Yes, L3 is after the second molt. I think you're doing pretty good. ;)

 
Do butterfly cages = net cages? Also, how many "ooths" can be hatched in each screen cage or 10 gallon?When you say L3, is that after the 2nd molt? I've been reading some other posts trying to glean information, but apparently i'm not doing terribly well.
You can hatch as many as you want in whatever cage you want. I prefer one at a time. I don't think you realize how many nymphs come from one good sized ooth. As far as the stages go, when they molt for the first time that is L2 and so on. You just need to get some ideas and then figure out what works for you.

 
You can hatch as many as you want in whatever cage you want. I prefer one at a time. I don't think you realize how many nymphs come from one good sized ooth. As far as the stages go, when they molt for the first time that is L2 and so on. You just need to get some ideas and then figure out what works for you.
I read 50-200 nymphs can come from one ooth, but it seems the most cost effective way to get these egg cases is 6 for 10$. I'll have to figure out some caging methods. Thanks for the help guys, i'll try to think up some more questions.

 
I read 50-200 nymphs can come from one ooth, but it seems the most cost effective way to get these egg cases is 6 for 10$. I'll have to figure out some caging methods. Thanks for the help guys, i'll try to think up some more questions.
May be cost effective however they're so cheap anyways. You will be wasting your time even attempting to hatch and raise six ooths. One is more than enough unless you want to put the rest of them in your garden.

 
May be cost effective however they're so cheap anyways. You will be wasting your time even attempting to hatch and raise six ooths. One is more than enough unless you want to put the rest of them in your garden.
I figured as much, I was going to stick with two and give the rest away to my friends.

Maybe i'll just stick with the two from Armstrong.

 
If you live in a warm place get extra and put in a small garden, let them hatch, and after awhile you might have adults and more ooths. And a pest free garden.

 
I figured as much, I was going to stick with two and give the rest away to my friends.Maybe i'll just stick with the two from Armstrong.
Keep in mind many will die. You will be lucky to end up with even 10 adults when it is all said and done. Do not let that discourage you from the hobby. It is normal.

 
Yep, that is sometimes the case. However, it seems like if the ootheca doesn't hatch much nymphs(Species-wise, not bad hatch.), most of the nymphs will survive to adult hood. Mantises that hatch out in the hundreds(Such as the Chinese) seem to die off at a rapid pace.

 
Yep, that is sometimes the case. However, it seems like if the ootheca doesn't hatch much nymphs(Species-wise, not bad hatch.), most of the nymphs will survive to adult hood. Mantises that hatch out in the hundreds(Such as the Chinese) seem to die off at a rapid pace.
I think that is because we take advantage of the many and i seem to let them kill because i dont have room for over 200 containers. LOL that would be a disaster. But when a more exotic ooth will hatch far less than that and they are more expensive

 
I always have Chinese. They're fun and you learn a lot from them. No substrate, little effort. Use the butterfly cage/bug tent. You will lose many and it won't be your fault. If it is your fault, you'll learn what not to do. This is the perfect way to start. As I said, I still keep them. They are fierce and funny and I thoroughly enjoy them. Keep the six ooths until one hatches and toss the rest outside.

 
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I think that is because we take advantage of the many and i seem to let them kill because i dont have room for over 200 containers. LOL that would be a disaster. But when a more exotic ooth will hatch far less than that and they are more expensive
Nah... ;) For ones like flower mantises, etc, where the hatch is around 20, have you ever heard of mass "die-offs" like you hear with Chinese or European? They seem to just die without any reason. Also, I have kept all my flower mantises despite the higher cost compared to the common species, and many of them survive. Whereas all my Europeans are dead. -.-" They were my first species.

 
I have learned to appreciate the flower mantids. I have to use a magnifying glass to see the hatchlings clearly. That's ok so long as I have other mantids that are taking down giant moths and watching the tele. The "common" mantids don't always die for no reason. Sometimes it's something you've done or failed to do and you learn from that experience. When you have 200 experiences in a matter of weeks, it amounts to crash course in keeping mantids. That's why I think their good beginners. Now I keep them just because I've become fond of them. A couple of months ago I saw an L3 nymph eating his sibling who was shedding. Just when you think you've seen it all...

 
I was simply just stating that mantises that have a lower average hatch per ooth seem to have a higher survival rate.

Of course not all of them die off, but if you notice, more live out of the 20 than out of the 200, it seems.Those nymphs seem to have "die-off"athons, so very few actually seem to make it to adult-hood. ;)

 
No, you're absolutely right. They have a high mortality rate. I'm just saying it provides for a fat learning curve.

 

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