Hydei Culturing Tips!?

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Can someone explain the honey to me? I've never noticed that in mixes before. I know honey is generally pretty resistant to most bad things (mold, etc) but I have never heard it passing along those traits to it's mix. I have also never heard the opposite, and simply haven't ever thought about it.

Is there any data here?
The only data I have is personal experience as an avid baker. I have noticed that my Challah bread (made with honey) lasts a LOT longer without molding than regular ol' homemade bread. Normal bread take about 2 days to start molding, but Challah takes almost a week!

 
I don't know if anyone has noticed, but I felt comfortable enough with my mix to start offering it for sale on the website. I still don't feel like Methylparaben is the best ingredient for mold inhibiting, but I have put a small amount of it in the mix anyway to help. I may still "tweak" the mix on occasion, but I feel it is productive enough to keep using it as it is as well. (The melanogasters REALLY explode on it!)

I have noticed the difficulty with acquiring methylparaben, though, so I may try Calcium Proprionate in the near future.

Thanks for the tips! I haven't completely forgotten about this thread...just got busy!

 
Methyl paraben can be purchased reasonably at Josh's Frogs. Anyone who uses any of his prepared FF mixes is using a paraben mix, and Carolina uses both mold inhibitors in their mix according to a young woman in their fly lab with whom I talked yesterday. Paraben does, indeed slow maggot development, but not by much more than a day, in my experience. Since instractions like "1/2 tsp to a culture" are not of much help iif you use different amounts of medium, a good rule of thumb is to use 1TBS (15ccs) to 71/2 cups of your mixture.

Yeast and "molds" are both fungi, but grow rather differently. Yeasts produvce (asexually) by budding, and very cute they are. Molds produce powdery spores, and I suspect that it is these that are vulnerable to paraben. I have found that by adding variable amounts of paraben to a yeast mixture and then testing it by proofing with sugar water, it is possible to kill the yeast with it, but in smaller amounts (much smaller!) it inhibits mold growth but not the yeast growth or, of course,the bacteria that are another source of live protein, though they can be killed, unless they are acidophylic (acid loving), by bathing them in vinegar. :p

Raising and playing with ffs can be fun, and here are two productvely fun things that you can do with them. Instead of measuring out 50 flies or whatever per cup (no joke if you're testing nine variables!) Just put all of the pots in a 12" cube and let the ffs have at 'em! That way, if some cultures don't yield and others do, you will know that it is because of the medium, not because the ffs were raised too close to Chernobyl.

Here's a fun and fairly accurate way to compare the yields of digfferent pots that you re comparing, without trying to count all of the flies that emerge (not fun at all!). Draw a 1" square, using a template and a felt tip. close to the top of the 32oz pot that you are using, on the outside of the plastic. Draw another one a little lower after rotating the cup a little and a third close to the bottom and a little further round. Do the same with all the others, drawing the squares at aproximately the same places and using the same template.

Now, when you want to compare yields, at least of pupae, all you have to do is count the pupae in those three squares. it won't tell you how many pupae there are in sum, but you will be able to compare the yields one to the other. Ain't that great?

 
Does anyone on the Mantid forum have a small culture of Hydei for sale? How much including shipping? I live in CA

90746. I use Pay Pal.

Rich Sekerman

 
When I started making my own cultures in November I used Green Oasis' method and ingredients:

Potato Flakes

Powdered Milk

Sugar

Water

Apple Cider Vinegar

Food Coloring

Active Dry yeast

I also started adding some of my whey protein powder which adds protein and a bunch of amino acids. (Got a huge case of it and only add a half a teaspoon)

I have found that you do not need mold inhibitor and it is just a waste of money. If you keep the consistency just right where it is moist but moves slowly when you tip the culture cup and add the flies right away the maggots will eat any mold that just starts to come up. It takes almost a week for the mold to start up at this consistency at which time the maggots should be eating. (I have found that the white mold grows faster if the culture is drier). Its a timing game but if you get it right you will do fine. Add flies immediately after placing medium in cup, if you wait a day you'll have mold.

Also I have taken Phil up on his advice about adding more yeast to the culture which not only increases yield as I have found but also speeds up the time at which the culture is ready and speeds up production of maggots.

Wild fruit flies will always produce faster then the flightless/wingless (in my experience).

Hydei will take a little longer than melangaster, Hydei takes about 2 weeks to produce pupae, wild melangaster 5 days, wingless 6 days. This has been my experience with the aforementioned culture ingredients. Started to use white vinegar instead of apple cider.

Wild Melangaster culture 5 days...

2011-01-07115932.jpg


Wingless Melangaster culture 5 days...

2011-01-07115959.jpg


Flightless Hydei culture 5 days...

2011-01-07120016.jpg


Flightless Hydei culture 5 days drier consistancy, notice the white mold starting to grow...

2011-01-07120151.jpg


 
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Question: Anyone know why my one of my Hydei cultures would have produced eggs but no maggots after 8 days?

 

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