DefyTheNorms
Well-known member
Brilliant feeding tip! I'm going to try the cup... and I'll definitely try a deeper container.
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@DefyTheNorms Yes, a taller wall container is needed. Personally I use the $5 Sterilite 56 quart containers modified for crickets. If you have like a ready made option the large Kricket Keeper and such exist (but I'm not a fan).
To capture crickets the easiest method is to use empty cardboard tubes for the cricket housing (paper towel, wrapping paper, toilet paper, etc tubes). The crickets crawl inside then all you have to do is cover the ends with your hands, and once over a habitat uncover the bottom and shake a few into the mantid habitat. The Kricket Keeper has reusable tubes built in for the same purpose.
If you use a larger container like I do the 56 quart one, another method is to simply remove the lid and shake egg crates/tubes into a tall container. I use empty 12" narrow cotton candy tubs I get from Walmart. Then I can either shake a few crickets into habitats, or much more easily grab them with tongs when the cup is angled (making running around the bottom of the cup impossible).
As you are using a sponge for water all I can say is to change it regularly. Sponges are infamous for quickly breeding bacteria, and not recommended. Cut potatoes are great for a water source, and besides food and water, can last several days before more is needed.
The crystals in your box will solve the cricket water problem the best. However there are other methods too for water. Such as you can easily put together a self waterer (see my below diagram), but I would recommend replacing the cotton with plastic mesh (sold as craft/needle mesh) as in my cricket tank below - or replace with small pebbles to the top of the water.
Indeed some mantids prefer flying prey and will only eat bottle flies, moths, etc. and in those cases it is best to give them what they want.
Here is a photo of a old cricket tank of mine - I do not recommend placing any material in the bottom as seen in it. In the end moisture would build in it, and it developed a bad case of grain mites. I anymore use a very thin layer of vermiculite (bought from stores in the plant sections for about $7 for a large bag) is inert, give crickets a substance to move on, they do not dig/eat/or lay eggs in, and actually absorbs any smells.
If I missed anything just say something.
To capture crickets the easiest method is to use empty cardboard tubes for the cricket housing (paper towel, wrapping paper, toilet paper, etc tubes). The crickets crawl inside then all you have to do is cover the ends with your hands, and once over a habitat uncover the bottom and shake a few into the mantid habitat. The Kricket Keeper has reusable tubes built in for the same purpose.
If you use a larger container like I do the 56 quart one, another method is to simply remove the lid and shake egg crates/tubes into a tall container. I use empty 12" narrow cotton candy tubs I get from Walmart. Then I can either shake a few crickets into habitats, or much more easily grab them with tongs when the cup is angled (making running around the bottom of the cup impossible).
As you are using a sponge for water all I can say is to change it regularly. Sponges are infamous for quickly breeding bacteria, and not recommended. Cut potatoes are great for a water source, and besides food and water, can last several days before more is needed.
The crystals in your box will solve the cricket water problem the best. However there are other methods too for water. Such as you can easily put together a self waterer (see my below diagram), but I would recommend replacing the cotton with plastic mesh (sold as craft/needle mesh) as in my cricket tank below - or replace with small pebbles to the top of the water.
Indeed some mantids prefer flying prey and will only eat bottle flies, moths, etc. and in those cases it is best to give them what they want.
Here is a photo of a old cricket tank of mine - I do not recommend placing any material in the bottom as seen in it. In the end moisture would build in it, and it developed a bad case of grain mites. I anymore use a very thin layer of vermiculite (bought from stores in the plant sections for about $7 for a large bag) is inert, give crickets a substance to move on, they do not dig/eat/or lay eggs in, and actually absorbs any smells.
If I missed anything just say something.
@DefyTheNorms Okay, well I went and got some new photos to show a cricket setup better - and to avoid things that I had to say not to use.
Here is one of the three tubs of my cricket breeding tanks. The tank itself is a Sterilite 56 quart storage tub available from many retailers, I get mine from Walmart locally for $5. The only modification I do for my tanks is to cut out a large portion of the middle of the lid for ventilation, and so my heater does not affect it. In the opening I hot glue in aluminum screen mesh, I use it as crickets can not eat through it, and heat will not melt it.
The heat is only needed for breeding purposes, and as you are not doing that is of no concern - room temps are fine for non-breeding (45F or better, some put them in the basement to keep cool and prolong their life cycle as they molt much slower when cold). Although I use a 250W red heater bulb with a thermometer relay (on/off) that keeps it within two degrees for the optimum cricket temperature of 86F.
Besides the tank one the outside the small shelving unit I bought just for crickets I modify it due to my cats. My new kitten Salem, decided one day to climb on top and lay beside the heat, and when he got down knocked the tank into the floor. The easy fix was to attach dowel rods to the shelving unit, and run nylon string along the tops with metal eye/hoop screws. On the right-side there is a simple metal hook/loop which allows me to remove it by unhooking it.
Inside the tank you can see a thin layer of vermiculite substrate (available in plant areas of stores in bags), again it is inert and crickets do not dig/eat/lay eggs in it and it gives them traction and absorbs odors. If smells get to you I highly recommend it as it makes such a difference for my wife Melinda, she thinks it's awesome.
The egg crates are nothing fancy just the paper/cardboard kind and I buy them from a local farm store (Rural King or Tractor Supply) for about $0.40 each. Besides that I place a layer of paper tubes underneath those in case I need to use them to get crickets out easier.
In the corners are the 8oz deli cups one for food, and another for the cricket water gel. I do add 1" wide and 4" long strips of fiberglass mesh to the empty cups and cover with food/gel and let overhang for the smaller crickets can easily access them.
Here is the container I use to gather crickets, besides using the tube method described in my last post. It is a 4oz empty cotton candy container that is about 12" tall - which the crickets can not jump out of. I have used smaller cups/containers in the past but crickets can escape too easily that way.
I simply put the cup in the bottom and shake/smack egg crates or tubes over the container opening to gather crickets.
Looking into the cup after one shake I got about a dozen crickets in it. At which point I hold the cup at a angle (so the crickets no longer can run around the bottom of it) and use tongs to pick them out to feed my pets. Or the top of the container can be squeezed to nearly close it, and then can be used to shake a few into pet habitats too.
Here is one of the three tubs of my cricket breeding tanks. The tank itself is a Sterilite 56 quart storage tub available from many retailers, I get mine from Walmart locally for $5. The only modification I do for my tanks is to cut out a large portion of the middle of the lid for ventilation, and so my heater does not affect it. In the opening I hot glue in aluminum screen mesh, I use it as crickets can not eat through it, and heat will not melt it.
The heat is only needed for breeding purposes, and as you are not doing that is of no concern - room temps are fine for non-breeding (45F or better, some put them in the basement to keep cool and prolong their life cycle as they molt much slower when cold). Although I use a 250W red heater bulb with a thermometer relay (on/off) that keeps it within two degrees for the optimum cricket temperature of 86F.
Besides the tank one the outside the small shelving unit I bought just for crickets I modify it due to my cats. My new kitten Salem, decided one day to climb on top and lay beside the heat, and when he got down knocked the tank into the floor. The easy fix was to attach dowel rods to the shelving unit, and run nylon string along the tops with metal eye/hoop screws. On the right-side there is a simple metal hook/loop which allows me to remove it by unhooking it.
Inside the tank you can see a thin layer of vermiculite substrate (available in plant areas of stores in bags), again it is inert and crickets do not dig/eat/lay eggs in it and it gives them traction and absorbs odors. If smells get to you I highly recommend it as it makes such a difference for my wife Melinda, she thinks it's awesome.
The egg crates are nothing fancy just the paper/cardboard kind and I buy them from a local farm store (Rural King or Tractor Supply) for about $0.40 each. Besides that I place a layer of paper tubes underneath those in case I need to use them to get crickets out easier.
In the corners are the 8oz deli cups one for food, and another for the cricket water gel. I do add 1" wide and 4" long strips of fiberglass mesh to the empty cups and cover with food/gel and let overhang for the smaller crickets can easily access them.
Here is the container I use to gather crickets, besides using the tube method described in my last post. It is a 4oz empty cotton candy container that is about 12" tall - which the crickets can not jump out of. I have used smaller cups/containers in the past but crickets can escape too easily that way.
I simply put the cup in the bottom and shake/smack egg crates or tubes over the container opening to gather crickets.
Looking into the cup after one shake I got about a dozen crickets in it. At which point I hold the cup at a angle (so the crickets no longer can run around the bottom of it) and use tongs to pick them out to feed my pets. Or the top of the container can be squeezed to nearly close it, and then can be used to shake a few into pet habitats too.
DefyTheNorms
Well-known member
@CosbyArt Wow! That's quite a set-up you have there!
I'll take the time to better look over all your information and make a smaller version based on your method. I had to order some blue bottle flies yesterday because, as I mentioned, I'm having issues getting most of mine to eat crickets, and even mealworms. Can the giant species be kept on just blue bottle flies and things like mealworms their entire life, or is that unhealthy for them? My giant species will eat the crickets, but just curious.
I'll take the time to better look over all your information and make a smaller version based on your method. I had to order some blue bottle flies yesterday because, as I mentioned, I'm having issues getting most of mine to eat crickets, and even mealworms. Can the giant species be kept on just blue bottle flies and things like mealworms their entire life, or is that unhealthy for them? My giant species will eat the crickets, but just curious.
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Serle
Well-known member
I do like the sanitary look of your set up . Do you feed crickets exclusively after smaller feeders (drosophila) ? No major prob's ?
Serle
Well-known member
I very much want to stay from flying feeders .therefore mealworms and crickets work for me .
Well thanks, but that is just a small part of it. The shelving unit has three tanks total (different instar sizes being eggs/pinheads, medium, and adults laying eggs (at least typically)) but are setup nearly the same - however getting a clear photo of them all in one is about impossible due to the location.@CosbyArt Wow! That's quite a set-up you have there!
I'll take the time to better look over all your information and make a smaller version based on your method. I had to order some blue bottle flies yesterday because, as I mentioned, I'm having issues getting most of mine to eat crickets, and even mealworms. Can the giant species be kept on just blue bottle flies and things like mealworms their entire life, or is that unhealthy for them? My giant species will eat the crickets, but just curious.
Yes, you can feed them the same feeder their entire life (if appropriate sized) but is not ideal, but likely the most common option for many keepers even if they don't admit it.
That is I've raised many mantids on primarily one feeder for their instar size, when nothing else was available due to weather or lack of options. Ideally mantids should be fed a mixture of various feeders to ensure their nutritional needs are met, and keeps them more engaged in feeding/hunting skills. Of course some mantid species only eat flying prey, others will eat only crawling prey, but thankfully many species happily take both types.
Being winter feeder options especially for flying prey hunters is limited (online pupae for most keepers), so feed them what you have found that works.
Thanks. It does do well this way and my wife Melinda does not complain (she fusses over smells), and anyone who does not know about the tanks do not realize anything is alive inside (or smell them) until I show them.
For mantids at least half of the year yes I do feed only crickets, and no problems of any kind. Only once since I started in the hobby did I blame crickets for a mantid issue, but honestly I really doubt that was the cause even then. Many senior keepers are the same (I'm still a newbie), with no or very limited issues from feeding crickets, I know Rick is one. DeShawn has written a article about the cricket hate/misconception and went as far as to feed them to a flying prey mantid species with great results.
I offer my pets as much feeder choices as possible (depending on weather and options) to ensure their nutritional needs are met (as described below), but indeed any of the mantid species I've kept so far did well on just crickets. I haven't though kept any of the "flying prey only mantid species", as with the large amount of species available I've found no need for such a picky species or typical huge price.
I use my fly traps to offer houseflies and bottle flies to my pets in warmer moths, and occasion wild moths and other things as well, but even then crickets are a common feeder. Mealworms can be great if the mantids eat them (I've never had any luck with a individual of any species no matter how I've tried though) but I know my tarantulas enjoy them. A easy to culture feeder is waxworms for the adult wax moths, and they are like junk food to mantids.
If you have luck with mealworms with mantids, then the waxworms themselves are a option even before they change to moths.I feed my mantids Springtails/Melanogaster FF, move up to Hydei FF, then appropriate sized crickets. When the mantid size is appropriate and a feeder is available I add them in when possible - but have not found it truly necessary; however, besides possible nutritional needs aside, who would want to eat the same thing everyday of their life?
Serle
Well-known member
The only species that I had problems with were Blepharopsis m. they achieved L6 and would not eat any thing but fliers.. what a heart breaker .. The one species that I haven't hatched yet is Creobroters , two tries and missed both ooths . (unknown reasons )... s
From the two you mentioned I've kept Creobroter pictipennis (L2 to adult) and it did fine on crickets; although, it seemed to prefer flies when available it wasn't a deal breaker. They are said to however be a candidate that can eat Hydei FF their whole life as they are so small, caresheet here. I know like the Creobroter, and similarly small species (Acromantis japonica is another one I had that would be great) that can be kept with easy to culture Hydei FF.
I'm curious though are you looking for mantid species as you do not want to order fly pupae/or can't get them in Canada?
DefyTheNorms
Well-known member
My itty bitty Creobroter is eating blue bottle flies!
I'm still in shock. A fly is almost as big as her!
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Serle
Well-known member
I would love to hatch a Creobroter , as I wrote earlier twice I have had ooth not produce . One did have a single nymph emerge halfway then die . When the weather warms up I will try again....... I really don't want fliers in my office , I have enough escapees in crickets............. S
DefyTheNorms
Well-known member
They do well with them as feeders, even if it is comical.My itty bitty Creobroter is eating blue bottle flies!
The only time I worried was when they caught the flies, as some flies would buzz their wings so fast my mantids nearly got pulled off their perches.Sorry to hear that, and indeed emerging nymphs that become stuck is heartbreaking. I've had it happen a few times with other species, and no matter how I tried to intervene it never helped. I hope the 3rd time is the charm for you, best of luck.
Okay that makes sense, any feeder can be inadvertently released. Well flightless flies are as advertised, but it seems all too common for various reasons (as you likely have read too) they can revert to their normal flying behavior. Besides contamination of other fruit flies into the culture (by laying eggs through the lid mesh), seems the more common problem is the flies being kept too warm causing them to loose the flightless mutation.
DefyTheNorms
Well-known member
Yes! They almost fly off with her! But she's a tough & feisty little girl. Apparently she doesn't like to eat fly wings, lol... I find them stuck to the sides of her enclosureThey do well with them as feeders, even if it is comical.
Hopefully they don't fly too far in your large habitats.Yes! They almost fly off with her! But she's a tough & feisty little girl. Apparently she doesn't like to eat fly wings, lol... I find them stuck to the sides of her enclosure
I've only had one mantid that would go out of it's way to ensure the proximal end of wings was picked clean, but would not eat the wings either. The mantid would sit there and spin each wing end around in it's mouth before dropping it. At least wings make for great cleaning crew chow.
DefyTheNorms
Well-known member
True! My budwing doesn't eat fly wings or legs! lol..At least wings make for great cleaning crew chow.
Must be a slow eater, seems the faster they eat the more likely they are to shove about everything in their mouth (well except wings).
