My culture container is large enough for nearly anything you would culture for feeders. It has easy access to clean or change the insides of the culture - and of course collect the feeders themselves.
I used a Sterilite model 1888 - 66 quart (62 liter) container, sized 24 1/2" x 17 3/4" x 13 3/8" (62.2cm x 45.1cm x 34cm). It was chosen as I picked it up after the holidays for only $5, and it had plenty of room. You can use any container you prefer for this project.
I built this to hold my waxworm culture (Achroia grisella, the lesser wax moth) as my old culture container was inadequate for the growing population. My original starter culture container was 7" x 7" 6" ( 17.78cm x 17.78cm x 15.24cm) in size, you can see photos and read about it here.
This DIY tutorial is aimed at making a waxworm culture, but if you change the food/substrate to whatever your feeder needs it will work for that too.
Step 1 - Ventilation
The first thing is to provide proper ventilation so the culture doesn't become too moist and mold, or other similar problems. I've found a opening in the lid that is 50%-75% mesh is required. Also you will want to close up any areas that the newborn feeders can escape through.
On my 66qt culture tub the ventilation on the lid is a 9" x 8" opening. Realistically it should be slightly larger, but I had a object to trace of that size so I went with that.
For the inside of the lid ventilation I covered it with aluminum screen mesh. Then on the outside a layer of fine mesh, I use organza fabric - it is used to keep newborn feeders in, and keeps fruit flies out. The fabric can trap the newborn feeders as I have seen a few from my old culture that become stuck in between it, so I know it works great.
On my 66qt container the area around the handles of the container had to be filled in to prevent escapes. I used organza fabric on the inside running the end over the container to the bottom of the handle area. The lid sits on the organza mesh and seals up the problem area. On top of that I used a aluminum mesh to prevent older and adult feeders from eating though it. This will have to be adapted to your culture container.
So far about two weeks of using the new container I have had no escaped feeders or other problems, so I think all the areas have been sealed. In the photos you can see the ventilation and escape proof areas.
Step 2 - Feeder Sleeves
I typically use my 10" long tweezers through a opening filled with sponge to capture feeders; however, with the extra depth and larger size it is not possible. The solution was to make some insect rearing/breeding sleeves - as it would allow me to stop feeder escapes and get feeders out easily.
It is similar to a laboratory glove box, but in this case the idea is to let material pass in and out of the container.
Construction is pretty straight forward and simple, although it may seem complicated at first. Walk through the process a few times and it will become much more clear.
Step A - For a added element to further prevent escapes when not in use, I make closed sleeve ports. They are made from plastic containers with the bottom cut off, and my arms fit through comfortably without excess room. I found 2.5oz cotton candy tubs were a great fit.
Step B - With the bottoms of the sleeve containers removed I position them where I want to mount them. Then using a marker I outline the bottom of the container on the culture tub, and cut out the holes for the sleeve containers. You will want to go slow and do this accurately for the best fit.
Step C - Press the sleeve containers into the culture tub holes, you will want the bottom of the sleeve containers to extend about 1.5" (4cm) inside the culture tub. If needed slightly enlarge the holes in the culture tub very slowly until you get the right fit. Ideally the sleeve containers will press into the tub making a tight fit and hold themselves easily - mine need to be inserted/pulled with force.
Step D - With the sleeve containers in place run a nice thick bead of hot glue around the sleeve container edge on the outside and inside of the tub. I recommend you use a high temp glue gun for best results. Do not wet the glue to hurry the dry time either, as you want it to give the best bond strength possible.
Step E - You will need a sleeve material, that is transparent to show any feeders inside it. There are a few options such as clear raincoats, clear rain guard bags made for camera or hunting gear, of course you could use plastic sheeting and make your own sleeves (such as window weatherproofing plastic).
I took the cheap way out, as I did not find any options in my area that was under $10 - so I use two empty bread bags. They are great for a few reasons besides price, as they work great, easy to replace, and are available almost everywhere. Depending on the bread company, the bags may be really thick too. It seems the cheaper the bread costs, the higher quality/thicker bags you will get.
Anyway the sleeve material will need to be open on both ends, so if you use bread bags simply cut off the closed end.
Step F - To attach and close the sleeve when not in use, you will need two rubber bands per sleeve. With the sleeve port lid off, put the end of the bag through it into the culture tub. You will want the lid off the culture tub to easily do this step. Roll the end of the sleeve around the inside protruding sleeve container (the 1.5" (4cm) area). Then put a rubber band around the sleeve and sleeve port, to lock the sleeve into place. See the photo below.
Step G - Using the sleeve for best results. In the below photo you will see the various stages of the sleeve labeled 1, 2, and 3 - with others showing it open and such.
To close the sleeve twist it multiple times to close the sleeve opening, see photo label 3. Take the twisted sleeve and fold it in half outside the sleeve port. Then using a rubber band secure the folded section, by stretching a rubber band over the folded area.
Put the closed sleeve into the sleeve port (photo label 2). For security put the sleeve port lid on to further secure it from any feeders escaping (photo label 1).
To open just reverse the steps, being careful not to tear the sleeve or pull it out when removing the rubber band on the twisted sleeve. If you practice the steps a few times before using the culture tub you will develop your own techniques.
If the sleeve becomes damaged, feeders enter the sleeve port, or the sleeve pulls loose - simply use the other sleeve to gain access to repair it.
Step 3 - Feeder Food
With the culture container finished it is time to mix up the food for the feeders. The following recipe is my variation on one I found written by snakegirl, and was the base for my original culture setup. So many thanks go to her.
One tip is to buy your ingredients from any discount store as the feeders will not care if it's a brand name or not. In fact it seems often the cheaper the food, the less additives and such are added to it. The exception to this is honey, insure it is 100% real honey - if it is an option buy it direct from a bee keeper (they can be found at farmer markets and such).
For waxworms the recipe I use is...
For the recipe above I weighed the items, but when I mix it up I simply fill my grinder cup half full of ingredients multiple times so the recipe is approximate. I found it doesn't have to be exact, and fluctuation in wheat cracker package size and such happens. I simply try to get it close to the recipe amount.
The 66qt culture was five times the recipe amount above to fill it about 1" to 1 1/2" (2.5cm to 4cm) deep. You can replace the cat food with dog food, guinea pig food, rabbit food, etc. It just needs to be a good source of protein for the waxworms.
I grind all my dry ingredients into a powder, and pour it through a screen shifter to ensure it is all ground (pouring the larger pieces out of the shifter back into the grinder as needed). You can view my shifter in the image below, they are found in the kitchen isle at stores (I got mine in three widths for $1).
When grinding it is best to grind the ingredients in this order, it starts with the driest to the wettest, so you will not have to clean your grinder between ingredients. Start with the near 100% dry potato flakes, followed by oats, wheat crackers, and finally the cat food. The four dry ingredients are put into a large mixing bowl and with a spatula or spoon mixed until thoroughly mixed. (See photos below).
Into the dry mix, I next mix in the Glycerine in small amounts - mixing as I pour. Then I add the honey in the same method; however it may tend to clump, so some manual hand mixing (squishing) may be required. Lastly, I shave the beeswax over the mix, in light layers, mixing each time a layer is formed.
Put the food mix into the container and pat it flat. Making it flat, makes it easier to see the waxworms moving around.
The quarter in the photo is for size reference as it is a lot of mix.
Step 4 - Feeder Housing
Waxworms like a place to spin their cocoon to pupate to moths and a good solution is to use corrugated cardboard, found on nearly all shipping boxes.
They like the ridges/grooves inside the cardboard so you will have to remove one of the paper sides from the cardboard. It is rather easy to do but is time consuming. The best method I have found is to pry up the paper edge and while pulling it to the opposite side with one hand, use a razor to release it from the ridges inside with my other hand.
* Alternatively you can purchase the cardboard sheet ready to go as Corrugated Wrap; although, the ready material is not as rigid.
I cut the finished cardboard into pieces and stack them vertical inside the culture, with the ridges running from side to side (horizontal). In the 66qt culture I hot glued the edges slightly to make it secure, as they are large and I do not want them falling over. I left one side open for my original culture to be added (it has cardboard already).
Step 5 - Finish
The final step is to add your feeders, a starter culture of 50 waxworms is a minimum with several hundred more preferred. In my case I simply added my original waxworm culture to the new 66qt one (you can see it on the bottom-right of the first image of this post).
I also added two small spring clamps (as seen in the first photo of this post) which are black and one on each side of the top lid. It securely holds the lid to the container in the weakest points, the middle of the lid.
Some people also add crumbled up wax paper as well on top of the food layer. Seems even those that do it are not sure if there is a point too it, but the adult moths will eat it some and lay eggs on it too. So it isn't like it hurts anything.
The waxworms will slowly eat the cardboard boring holes through it though, so you may have to add more or replace it in the future. Also as your culture progresses they will turn the food into dropping/excrement so more food can be added on top of the old food layer as needed. I have found it difficult to tell it apart from their food simply by looking; however, if you break it apart it will tend to be small round pieces that do not stick together.
Any dead wax moths or waxworms can be left as the waxworms will eat them, I don't both to clean my culture until it is time to replace it.
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