Idolomantis Consolidated

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Congrates!!!! :clap: :clap: :clap: you did it :clap: :clap: :clap:
 
Well I now have had my first 3 ooths hatch in the order they were laid by 2 different females, so needless to say I'm very happy about that.

If anyone would like some just PM me. A few L3-4's left, some L2's and a new hatch of L1's, I'm doing some record breaking prices on them to help other's enjoy them with out breaking the bank or taking a chance over seas.

 
Ugh.. Sometimes I just wanna take a cricket and some discarded wings and glue them together with honey... Think she'd know the difference?

k, yeah, probably.

 
Ugh.. Sometimes I just wanna take a cricket and some discarded wings and glue them together with honey... Think she'd know the difference?

k, yeah, probably.
Get used to maggots. They are your best friend when you have Idolo.

General info for everyone:

I buy maggots 1,000 at a time from Grubco.com. Comes out to about 20 shipped. Maggots last up to 2 months refrigerated. Pupae last less than 2 weeks.

I leave about 250 out to pupate (usually withing 24 hours) in a shoebox sized enclosure with a screen lid. Then its 8-10 days before they hatch.

Once they hatch allow them to feed a few days. I keep water crystals and fly food in there. Sprinkle some fresh food each day.

Then I keep them refrigerated. Put the whole container in the fridge. That way they are always docile and ready to go. They last a very long time that way. If your going to keep them over a long period give them a day out of the fridge to eat and drink about once a week.

I take the next batch of maggots out to pupate once the first batch starts to hatch. That's the timing that works for me. May be different for you depending on how many you hatch vs how many you go through in 10-12 days.

 
I think that timeline is just about right. Some variance in heat and nutrition.

And Precarious' suggestion on the maggots is spot on.

 
@ Meagan,The last 2 molt's are more unpredictable than the first 6-7, I've noticed a wide range of molting times in siblings (same batch of nymphs) to get to adult first, all with the same care and food, you have to look for swollen wing buds to know for sure, well that my best way to know anyway?

 
Yup! Swollen wing buds, disinterest in food, and you can actually FEEL that they are... soggier. If you hold or move them, you can tell when the molt is close.

 
I owe a thank you and and tip my hat to Mark, when I grow up I want to be just like him, lol.

Thanks Bud!

 
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It does, really.

Question: Do your idolos like butterflies and moths? I know they like flippity flappity things. Surely, they must get tired of flies for dinner every night.. I was thinking of raising some other flying fudz.

 
RE: The "Don't Feed Idolos Crickets" debate:

I had an adult female eat nothing but adult crickets for 30 days - the majority of which, she caught herself. She laid an ooth after (roughly) 28 days, which appears to be healthy... normal-sized and shaped for an Idolo ooth. If it hatches successfully, I'll update on this thread.

 
hey guys. i just noticed that there seems to be two strains of idolos in culture. one has a blue or black base to the thorax in the nymph phase while the other has a green base. has any one else noticed this?

 
hey guys. i just noticed that there seems to be two strains of idolos in culture. one has a blue or black base to the thorax in the nymph phase while the other has a green base. has any one else noticed this?
Are there any pictures of these?
 
I predict the difference you will notice is those fed exclusively on ground insects will soon die of starvation... unless you plan on hand-feeding them just about every meal. I can appreciate wanting to find the ideal conditions but I would scratch that variable off the list. They prefer flying insects over any other feeders without exception. I think everyone here would agree with that assessment.

I think what we're finding is they do relatively well in just about any conditions short of too dry, which is normal for any species. I raise mine without extra heat while others add heat, which only seems to increase their maturation rate. Their enclosure is the biggest factor as to whether or not you end up with adults. Pay the most attention to that and you will likely do fine. It would seem all the failures early on were due to falls from using the wrong surfaces to molt. Given the right surfaces the failure rate drops dramatically.

That being said, they are still not easy to breed. Getting adults is one thing. Producing viable ooths is another.

Hats off to Angelofdeathzz!

You should definitely get some. Really worth the effort. You will love them!

I mean... c'mon... :)

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here is the blue version (precarious's)
 
Yes, in fact there are 2 different strains right now or in recent times. One is a bit smaller with more purple and maybe greenish hue to it though not as hardy, in fact I know a few friends that have(had) them but they didn't last long, all died before pre-sub to poor overall health or genetics not sure which and these are but the people I speak of know how to care for them. The other strain are the ones I have going that are much larger(some 4.5-5 inches)like tanks and way more robust with some having a more flat color but 60-70% are very bright in hue/color but a little less purple going on overall.

Mine are from the Tanzania region the other smaller dead end sp I believe are from Kenya but don't quote me on that.

Keep in mind Henry has very good, and expensive photoshop type programs to enhance color or what ever he wants, not sure but both photo's may be from my stock with Precarious magic thrown in there. But he did have both stocks, one all died and mine all lived, maybe he'll shed some light on this?

 
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oh ###### i have the greenish version from poland.
None come from Poland Buddy, read my above statement... :)

I should say "originate" from Poland, I have some L2-3's still if anybody wants to check them out? Just PM me...

 
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