Idolomantis diabolica

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Well got the first ooth! gonna have to wait FOREVER to see hatching:lol: ! This one is not Pauls lady, but the second lady that was sent, she was mated after his, but she eats better to as her claws are good, but Pauls is getting fat, so hopefully in next few days, she will lay one too!

 
I was also thinking, that were these idol ladies from Yen? Because mine came right from someone else, so this way there is no inbreeding right now, so that makes it nice. ;)

 
I was also thinking, that were these idol ladies from Yen? Because mine came right from someone else, so this way there is no inbreeding right now, so that makes it nice. ;)
lol incest is always a no no. lol at least with our species!! :lol:

I am down to one sexed sub adult pairs that are about to molt any day now. Probably in 1-7 days.

They are both in a large mesh hamper. Blue bottle flies just don't cut it with these big guys, I need some moths!!!

I might get into other species of caterpillars just for the moths as feeders for mantids and my panther chameleons.

Manduca Sexta AKA hawk moths are too big for mantids.

 
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Well we have another ooth! this one is Pauls lady! It is a bit smaller than the other but nonetheless, looking good! :lol: Oh, ps I forgot to write the date, but I think it was the 9/16!

 
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After 2 hours of reading on forums and caresheets from overseas, here are some notes I'd like to put out there to see if it matches our experiences:

IDOLOMANTIS

Notes from research:

People are keeping them hot - up to 100f, but success has been noted much lower.

Several reports of them gathering at the hotspots.

High Humidity reported to be irrelevant to health, besides (maybe) molting.

12 days per instar for the first five instars,

17 days each for the next two instars

17-19 days at sub adult

20-39 days to adult

97 - 120 days to reach adult after hatching

Females DO have an extra 8th molt.

Males live about 3 months (mine was shorter).

Females as much as 6 months

Females start to call in about 3/4 wks

23-31 days between mating and 1st ooth

25 days between new ooths.

3-6 ooths in a lifetime.

51-54 days to hatch (presumably under some kind of heat and humditiy)

24 nymphs in a hatch, 45-50 nymphs in another report.

Other notes:

Spraying / Humidity MIGHT encourage breeding.

Small twigs MIGHT help save falling adults during molting.

Exo-terra flexi seems to be the preferred cage/hanging material.

Thoughts and additions....?

 
Looks like a great list. I never could get mine interested in mating despite high temps and all that. Beautiful mantis, but far too much hassle for me.

 
Thanks for sharing! This way we know what to expect!

Although we have out L3 and L4 for 14 days now... and it took them 5 days to get here, so that makes 19 days, and som still need to molt. They are refusing food, so it should not take long then.

 
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I would add this:

I have read that the way to keep males till females molt, is to feed them less and keep them cooler.

I did this with two of my males and both died within a month. The third male is being kept the same as the females, and he is going on his third month, eating every day and drinking everyday. I really think that keeping them cooler and feeding them less is what makes them die. Take it for what it is worth, but he is still here eating and he is not a TURKEY! :p

 
from what I've learned 100 degree's is to hot, 85-88 is all they want or need untill mating time. I'm not as a advanced as some here but my L5 and L6 Idolo's have done very well at 85-88, with a half inch of wet moss in the bottom of there 80oz deli cups for high RH. they are very active and run all over when I bring them out, and not one molting issue so far, each in its own cup with only 2 sticks in each. but I keep them seperate because I had a L4 eat a L3 a while back even though they were very well feed(my bad luck I guess) so 3 went to 2 and I'm not taking any chances with them.

that's my 2 cents for what it's worth. :)

 
Hi

Ha, today the first larvae of me second self bred generation hatched out :)

Very happy, now I know at least one female was mated correctly. This time it took around 2.5 month until the ooth hatched.

regards

 
Yeah, 8 weeks incubation seems to be the concensus.

And temps, as Rebecca mentioned, also seem to hover in the mid 80's. But mine were hotter, as were many of the others who got them to adult. And Rebecca's the only one I've heard report of deaths that didn't have the work "molt" right next to them. They seem really hardy - especailly if they can have a 20 some degree variance from breeder to breeder - not to mention the absolute extremes of humidity! And the gauge of the mesh seems to be the real magic bullet.

 
Here is my timetable of molts:

L2

(12 days)

L3

(18 days)

L4

(16 days)

L5

(20 days)

L6

(27-30 days)

L7

Waiting for L8 so at least 2 of them must be females.

I keep mine at room temp. Use a lamp for extra heat about 6 hours per day which takes it to 85-88.

Humidity 60-70% (as low at 45% with heat light on). And I mist them daily.

I've keep mine in a glass enclosure with a roof of twigs and have none of the gripping problems others report.

One bad molt to L7 but alive and well. Second L7 is perfect.

What we need to track is at what point a molt went bad. At what point in the molt did they fall? Did they make it all the way out of the old skin, then fall? Or were they stuck? If they get stuck in the skin we can assume low humidity was the cause.

My only bad molt, the L7, was one that chose a spot with nothing to grip around it. I wasn't present to watch the molt but found complete skin and mantis in the moss. It had obviously made it completely out of the old skin, then fell.

The perfect L7 molt I witnessed (and recorder) was next to the vines and twigs I have mounted to one wall. The mantis did not step onto the leaves as I had anticipated, but rather twisted to grip them in addition to the skin. So had the skin dropped it may have held to the leaves. It then reached past the old skin to grip the twig roof. It's pretty crazy how long their legs get. I can understand how the lose them so easily.

My observations suggest that an ideal enclosure would have narrow (3" to 4") isles with foliage or twigs to each side. That way no matter where they choose to molt they would have the opportunity to grip additional surfaces after extraction from the skin. An open square of roof leaves the possibility of choosing a bad location to molt. I may construct a permeable wall of twigs down the center of my tank to test this out.

I will try to edit and post the L7 molt footage this week yet. I'll come back here and post the link.

 
I've only heard one report of an Idol mismolting (stuck in it's skin). Even with no added humidity. The losses all seem to be from the "switch" - the start of inflating the wings. Most report fully extended, but wrinkled wings (that was true for all of my adults but two). My female, who came out perfect, made it by only ONE LEG! We watched in horror as the other three legs (from the old skin) came unhooked one at a time - from a really solid looking grip on a thin plastic branch.

I'm thinking one of those collapsable laundy baskets (cylindrical) turned on it's side might be perfect. No sides and easy access to climb back up. Also, if it's suspended, and not on a surface, it might even provide some bounce if they DO fall. I'll let you know in about 4 months... :)

Also, when you DO get adults, don't panic about the color - takes 3 or 4 days to get really vivid.

 
I've only heard one report of an Idol mismolting (stuck in it's skin). Even with no added humidity. The losses all seem to be from the "switch" - the start of inflating the wings. Most report fully extended, but wrinkled wings (that was true for all of my adults but two). My female, who came out perfect, made it by only ONE LEG! We watched in horror as the other three legs (from the old skin) came unhooked one at a time - from a really solid looking grip on a thin plastic branch.

I'm thinking one of those collapsable laundy baskets (cylindrical) turned on it's side might be perfect. No sides and easy access to climb back up. Also, if it's suspended, and not on a surface, it might even provide some bounce if they DO fall. I'll let you know in about 4 months... :)
Well, that's what I suspected. The flip is the dangerous part.

And that sounds like a really unique solution! You've gotta try that and see how well it works. :D

 
I have an old hexagon mesh cage that I'm not using. I may see if THAT will work if I tip in on it's side as well. Eventually, when I think I have something down, I'll have a professional build me one for real. I'll post it when I get there...

 
What we need to track is at what point a molt went bad. At what point in the molt did they fall? Did they make it all the way out of the old skin, then fall? Or were they stuck? If they get stuck in the skin we can assume low humidity was the cause.

My only bad molt, the L7, was one that chose a spot with nothing to grip around it. I wasn't present to watch the molt but found complete skin and mantis in the moss. It had obviously made it completely out of the old skin, then fell.

The perfect L7 molt I witnessed (and recorder) was next to the vines and twigs I have mounted to one wall. The mantis did not step onto the leaves as I had anticipated, but rather twisted to grip them in addition to the skin. So had the skin dropped it may have held to the leaves. It then reached past the old skin to grip the twig roof. It's pretty crazy how long their legs get. I can understand how the lose them so easily.
My one mismolt was a similar situation. I did not witness it, but found the mantis in a heap at the bottom on the paper towel. None of its limbs were stuck in the old skin, which was complete and a few inches away from the mantis.

One thing I noted was that the mismolter did it from the metal screen, while the two that were ok molted from the leaves and sticks.

 
Yup. The metal mesh vs. large tarsus seems to be the culprit. Also, the inability to climb back up after the fall.
Those are the main factors for sure, but there is a little more to it. Mine was hanging from twigs and still fell, I believe, because there was nothing to either side to grab onto in addition to the skin. I think the skin can only hold the full weight for so long. I could be completely wrong, but I don't see any other explanation.

Let's keep this conversation going. This is good for all of us. Eventually we'll crack the code! :D

 
I'd say listen to what Tier said awhile back in an Idolo post. He's had much success with packing glass terrariums full of thin twigs.

The twigs I have are all thin, strong, and rough. I'd stay away from anything that has a smooth surface, like bamboo or metal screen.

I have a loofa that I could cut up and use over the metal areas, would this be similar to the mesh some of you have been using?

 

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