Our Collection

[kamakiri]

Hey kamakiri, my bro's at work right now so I'm gonna reply for him lol. He's using an attachment lens and our camera is a Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ50. We're gonna try out the way you do it just to get an understanding how all this works.

Cool. Found a copy of your manual here:

http://sils.unc.edu/itrc/its/lab_resources...FZ50-manual.pdf

It looks like your Aperture is limited to f/11, so I'd try: ISO 200 or 400, 1/250, f/11. Also try higher shutter speeds like 1/500, if possible. With many CCD cameras, the sync limit can be pretty high, like 1/2000.

There may be limits to how sharp the attachment close-up lens can get beyond the center, which looks pretty sharp.

Hope that helps!

 

[PhilinYuma]

Cool. Found a copy of your manual here:http://sils.unc.edu/itrc/its/lab_resources...FZ50-manual.pdf

It looks like your Aperture is limited to f/11, so I'd try: ISO 200 or 400, 1/250, f/11. Also try higher shutter speeds like 1/500, if possible. With many CCD cameras, the sync limit can be pretty high, like 1/2000.

There may be limits to how sharp the attachment close-up lens can get beyond the center, which looks pretty sharp.

Hope that helps!

Not much to add to Kamakiri's comments. Yes, F11 is yr minimum aperture. The ISO on these Panasonic cameras goes up to an absurd 1600, absurd, because although the Venus III engine is an improvement over the II on the old FZ30 and FZ18, which was very smeary at high ISO, it is still far from perfect, and Kamakiri's advice will give you pix with less noise.

Obviously, decreased F stop and increased shutter speed can only be compensated for, on camera, by higher ISOs, so the answer is to use a studio setup with LOTS of light! Are you using a Panasonic closeup lens? The ones that I have used only increase the distance from the object at which you can focus the camera. Is that the case with yours?

 

[khabirun]

Wow thanks guys. I really don't know what to say but thanks a lot, hope it'll help me a great deal.

 

[sufistic]

Been having a lotta hatches recently. Need to clear some rack space.

Hatchling shelf:

Acromantis sp. IGM 181

L3 nymph (12 nymphs, 2 ooths in incubation)

Creobroter sp. IGM 174

L1 nymph (53 nymphs, 2 ooths in incubation, 1 mated adult female)

Deroplatys lobata

L2 nymph (41 nymphs, 2 ooths in incubation, 1 mated adult female)

Gongylus gongylodes

L1 nymph (14 nymphs, 3 ooths in incubation) (Thanks Kev!)

Hymenopus coronatus

L1 nymph (44 nymphs, 1 mated adult female, 1 unmated adult female, 1 adult male, 3 subadult female, 2 subadult male)

Odontomantis sp.

L4? nymph (10 nymphs)

Statilia sp.

L5? nymph (10 nymphs)

Theopropus elegans IGM 175

L2 nymph (16 nymphs, 6 mated adult females, 1 unmated adult female, 8 ooths in incubation)

 

[Katnapper]

Beautiful and diverse collection! :wub: I wish you the very best with all!!!!

 

[agent A]

T. elegans looks a lot like Creobroter, especially as nymphs. I think your nymph pic of T. elegans is a male

 

[sufistic]

Beautiful and diverse collection! :wub: I wish you the very best with all!!!!

Thanks Becky. Much appreciated.

T. elegans looks a lot like Creobroter, especially as nymphs. I think your nymph pic of T. elegans is a male

That's right Alex, they do look similar. But breeding them is a tad bit difficult than Creobroter sp. You think that one's a male? I haven't really tried to sex them. Maybe I should already.

 

[agent A]

You think that one's a male? I haven't really tried to sex them. Maybe I should already.

I have sexed Creobroter gemmatus at L3. I have a little microscope thingy. hold on a sec...

This is what I use to sex them!

 

[sufistic]

I have sexed Creobroter gemmatus at L3. I have a little microscope thingy. hold on a sec...This is what I use to sex them!

Nice Alex.

 

[agent A]

Nice Alex.

thanks. you should seriously get one. You can see the whole structure of the genitalia real easily with one of those pocket microscopes.