KevinsWither
Well-known member
I have some questions. What size pins would I need to pin most insects in general professionally? What is a nice quality pin that would last for a nice price? Any supplies I would need?
Pinning insects
- Thread starter KevinsWither
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Same answers as given to your mantid pinning questions before at Arachnoboards here.
Most pinning guides recommend a size 2 or 3, but others prefer a wider range depending on the portion they are pinning. In which case buy various sizes to see what you prefer, or get a pin sampler of all the sizes.
Standard price is around $5 per 100 pins, Bioquip, eNasco, Indigo Instruments are a few such suppliers. For the pin material itself use stainless still so it does not rust (other types are sometimes available).
Other supplies needed vary - read how to pin insects, mantids in particular, in this sticky post here to answer your questions. It also includes videos on how to do it step by step and supplies/equipment needed.
KevinsWither
Well-known member
Thank you. And also, how do you know me on Arachnoboards?
KevinsWither
Well-known member
And what types of forcerps will I need to move wings or the specimens themselves?
Forceps is just the technical name for tweezers generally speaking, and some refer to them as tongs even. I would suggest getting a standard 4"-5" long pair (stainless for quality/long life) with rounded ends so you don't accidentally pierce the specimen using them.
If you are getting them special just for pinning though, you might as well get the pinning forceps as they have angled tips and made for the purpose.
KevinsWither
Well-known member
Fortunately I got the insect pins (a sampler size and size 2, from indigoinstruments. Now the thing is how would I make an insect pinning block? From scratch? Anything on gutting large insects (large mantids, stick insects, giant scorpions, tarantulas) so that they won't stink when mounted?If you are getting them special just for pinning though, you might as well get the pinning forceps as they have angled tips and made for the purpose.
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Great, glad you got the pins.
An insect pinning block is only used to set the height of the display pin needle itself (that is the reason for the stepped look, different heights for different sized specimens). In reality it is only useful if you are making huge framed collections and want to keep them at a very precise height - even then it only really applies to small specimens.
See this article on how to actually use a pinning block, and it should clear up why they are not needed (or even talked about in the pinning article on mantises). If however, you want one anyway...
- The pinning block itself you can buy at any of the site links I gave for pins before and even eBay, or you can make your own.
- The easiest guide for making your own pinning block is this one (otherwise you need a table or band saw, or at the very least be extremely good with a hand saw). If you make one you should be able to find the wood pre-cut for the guide link (easiest) at the right thickness and likely width at a hobby or craft store. Although for about $7 it would be simpler to buy one made, as the wood will cost at least half that depending on the store.
Regarding gutting large insects as mentioned in the pinning article, he like many others does nothing and leaves them intact. Some will however remove the internal organs by slicing open the abdomen with a scalpel/razor and using tweezers and cotton swabs (q-tips) carefully remove them. Usually a piece of wool is inserted to fill in the empty cavity space. The opening is then sealed with a small bead of super glue, or can be sutured (stitched) closed with a tiny curved suture needle and waxed thread.
Super glue works fine to close the opening and is the most common, if you are interested in suturing you will need to read up on that online as it is not something that can be explained in text (the size of needle and thread is harder to come by too, and is only recommended for experienced users as it is all too easy to rip/tear a mantis exoskeleton trying to do it).
Read this post about pinning too although it is not a guide, it may help you to understand it some from the various photos and posts.
KevinsWither
Well-known member
Alrighty and is it best to freeze insects for pinning?
The best way is to pin them as you acquire them. Of course this isn't always possible so the only solution is to freeze them, but it can affect their colors.
If you do freeze them do not use glass containers as it will often build up condensation on the jar as it freezes and can ruin the specimen, plastic bags work fine. When your ready to pin the frozen specimen you need to let it thaw naturally, which can be up to an hour. If the specimen has dried out some from the process though you will need to put the specimen in a relaxing jar before pinning.
To make a relaxing jar read the sticky post, it is labelled "Construction of the Relaxing Jar".
KevinsWither
Well-known member
I put them in a plastic deli container with holes. Does that work?
For which purpose are you using the deli cups? If it's for freezing, it should be fine. If it is for a relaxing jar, no that will not work as the humidity will escape.
KevinsWither
Well-known member
It is for freezing. The relaxing jar must be made of glass? What if the plastic has no holes in it.
Plastic without holes is fine for a relaxing jar. It just holds the fluid until the suspended specimen (on cotton and cardboard per the guide) becomes movable again.
KevinsWither
Well-known member
I attempted to spread a grasshopper as practice. I kind of realized that I would need to make a spreading board. I managed to organize the legs but the wings are the hardest part.
Good, no matter how much you read you will learn more by trying.
Your right the wings are tough, but after doing it a few times you should have much better luck getting them the way you want. Keep at it and enjoy your new hobby.KevinsWither
Well-known member
Thats my flaw. I plan a lot but don't actually do the action. So far I just need to practice a lot more. Now would the insects need a drying period of a week or more?
It is with many of us, too many projects and not enough time.
The drying period will vary depending on the specimen size and moisture, quote from the guide...
For the grasshopper you mentioned above, about a week should be enough drying time. If it is a mantis or such then go for two weeks. It is better to give it plenty of time that way it is set and won't move when you remove it from the drying board. Although waiting can be tough and sucks, as everyone that does it wants to know how well it turned out.
KevinsWither
Well-known member
Now I got the Shadow box, which is 16 x 20 inches. Will that be good enough to store a variety of insects and invertabrates, maybe around 50 with some small and some big?
