Pinning insects

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Alright I changed the links I believe so that the link is accessible. Now what glue could I use to attach a new foam or a cork board to it? 
The links are working now. It is a side view and the glass top view as well. Before gluing anything you should create your layered materials into a finished block first.

If you plan on using the foam idea above, the canvas cloth covering the layer of cork and foam, you need to pre-cut your foam and cork to the size you need for the shadow box. For best results I find a metal ruler and razor allow much cleaner cuts.

With those cut to size you need to glue them lightly to one another. The best option is a spray adhesive glue, like the 3M Super 77 or this one - I've used other spray glues and they can be hit and miss on quality/stickyness though, but can save money. Often those adhesives are called a general purpose spray adhesive or similar, and are about $5 a can, but should do fine on this project.

Take the cork and foam outside, lay them on newspaper, and spray the glue lightly on the two sides to glue together (spray both the cork and foam). Let the glue sit for a few minutes (read the can directions as they do vary some), then align the cork and form together (sticky sides facing together) and press them together - as you only have one shot at aligning them, start in a corner and slowly lay the material down keeping it aligned as you stick them together. If needed repeat gluing pieces of foam together to get the desired 1/2" thickness.

Next, you need to wrap them in the canvas/duck cloth if you using that too. The easiest method with the best look, would be to let the cloth overlap 1"-2" on the back of the foam after covering the front and sides. I personally would just leave the cloth uncut to ensure it fits properly, and cut the excess cloth off the back. Spray the adhesive onto the cork side (top/front) of the cork/foam block you made, just glue the top and nothing else. Let the glue sit as the directions say on the can.

When it's ready, lay your canvas/duck cloth out completely flat (wrinkle free) on a hard surface, and hold the block above the fabric about 2" from both sides of a corner (allowing for enough cloth to overlap your material). With the block positioned slowly lower the glued block and press it onto the cloth, before the glue sets tight you should be able to pull the fabric a bit to get rid of any minor wrinkles you may have gotten accidentally. Let the glue harden then pull the fabric over the foam onto the back, then using scissors cut the cloth so there is 1"-2" of cloth overlapping on the backside of the foam all the way around the foam block.

Lay the block on newspaper (cloth side down) and unwrap the cloth from the foam block back and sides (leave the front glue side alone), as you will need to glue the loose cloth to the block. Using the spray adhesive, put glue along the foam edge and the foam bottom of the block - just spray a line a few inches around the bottom for the cloth to attach to. If you feel confident in your spray gluing abilities, spray the inside of the cloth that will touch the foam on the back too. Let the glue sit as the directions say on the can. Then attach the cloth slowly, pulling gently to remove wrinkles and pressing it into the glue on the foam. Do that for four of all the cloth sides and your block will be finished.

Finally with the completed layered cloth/cork/foam block you are ready to mount it into your shadow box. Spray adhesive onto the bottom of the foam block (the side with the overlapped cloth). Let the glue sit as the directions say on the can. Then carefully lower and position the finished block into it's location in your shadow box. Your done. ;)

Just go slowly, and be aware of what is getting glued properly, and you should be fine. Of course check with the instructions as you go, but it is much easier project than imagined. It will likely take 30 minutes to 1 hour to do, but once you have figured out how to do something like this, it will only take 10-20 minutes.

 
I believe that this is the way the backing stays with the box:  

The thing I found with this is that when removed some of the foam, the length of the foam seems to be needed so that the box mainly stays airtight. So I'll probably have to measure the interior dimensions and whatnot. Now how much depth is needed for a shadow box? 

shadow-box-back_1.jpg

 
Strange way for the box to open and close, more like a picture frame than any display type box. With that being the case though you should leave what is there, and simply make the foam block as described above and just glue it to the boxes current foam overlapping the foam in place already.

Take the back off and glue both the finished block and the boxes current back foam with the spray adhesive, that way the bond is even stronger.

 
Then I realized that I might do a huge amount of specimens at once. Along with making sure that it turns out well and stuff. Now I have to find some way to make all these plans reality. Also I took off the rest of the foam and now I have the problem of making sure the cork board or foam and canvas top fits. I'll probably do some dimension fitting soon.

 
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Would 3/16th inch thick cork with canvas cloth be sufficient for insect pins? 
Depends on how thick the foam is, as the ideal thickness is 1/2".

As it is now at maybe 4/16 (1/4") with the canvas you are 1/4" shy on thickness and that would result in very poor pinning in the box (with the specimens likely to fall over and get damaged when the box is hung or moved).

 
Okay well the 3/16 inch cork is used so that it replaces the background foam. Now would 3/8th of an inch be good? Do insects need lots of depth space? I plan on pinning a rhino beetle or two. 

 
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Okay well the 3/16 inch cork is used so that it replaces the background foam. Now would 3/8th of an inch be good? Do insects need lots of depth space? I plan on pinning a rhino beetle or two. 
Sure 3/8" should be close enough (just 1/8" off). ;) The pinning material thickness is for the amount it can grip and hold the pins securely, more material will grip better and have less problems. While less material of course will lead to less grip and more likely for things to fall or move around - side to side movement being common for little pin grip/material thickness.

The depth needed depends on how large the specimens are and the length to the top of the pins used. As long as your display/shadow box has the room it should be no problem; however, you will have to try and figure out that yourself.

 
Good news I managed to build a spreading board and stuff. Now next problem is getting a good amount of specimens. And could I glue cork onto cork to add thickness?

 
Good news I managed to build a spreading board and stuff. Now next problem is getting a good amount of specimens. And could I glue cork onto cork to add thickness?
Glad to hear you got a spreading board and stuff made, sounds like you should have about everything you need. 
thumbs-up2.gif
Indeed finding specimens can be tough this time of year, but your classified ad may provide you with more than you would want.

Sure gluing cork together is fine, and how most cork sold is made anyway (as it is a crumbly material and pieces are glued together in blocks and cut - especially sheet cork, as it is like particle board in that respect). :)

 
I decided that to simplify things I plan to paint it. I would like to use natural paints. I don't know what color to paint. I was thinking natural pine color, white or something else. And when cork is penetrated with pins, does the holes show?

 
I decided that to simplify things I plan to paint it. I would like to use natural paints. I don't know what color to paint. I was thinking natural pine color, white or something else. And when cork is penetrated with pins, does the holes show?
It was mentioned somewhere back, but I don't want to bother to find my comment. ;) Yes, cork can show holes (although in many cases it shouldn't) but depending on the cork it may rip and crumble too if you are removing pins regularly - and why the canvas covering it was recommended.

 
Actually I managed to pin one of my deceased specimens and I kept it in a dark cardboard box with dry rice in it. This specimen is an inch big.

 
Glad to see your still with it. Any photos you want to share of your current specimens? Also if you want specimens you do not have access to, you can buy them at Peter's other online store http://deadinsects.net/.

Now that it is fall and my bug collecting days are numbered this year, I'm hoping to do some pinning projects myself with my free time over the winter. I ordered plenty various supplies to try out recently, I just need to decide which species or project to do first. ;)

 
Yeah I do want to share photos, but the catch is that I can't seem to be able to post photos of them on this forum without getting errors like -200 or something along the lines. Now I did manage to get a few more specimens and get those pinned. 

 

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