@KevinsWither It should have plenty of room depending on your row spacing and the amount of large specimens. A 8"x12" display box can hold up to about 40 small specimens, so your larger one should be fine.
Pinning insects
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KevinsWither
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Now that it has been 5 days, my pinned grasshopper seems to be blackening on the abdomen, but otherwise is fine. Should I have any concern with that?
Usually there will be color loss and/or black appearing, it is a sign that the specimen was too moist. To prevent the problem in the future you can try placing the specimen to dry in a warmer/drier part of your house, on top of a bookcase, or a in a homemade specimen "dryer" (a shoebox partially filled with desiccant (silica-gel packs) to help dry it out a bit faster to prevent blackening - also uncooked rice is said to work good too).
From the pinning guide, he also talks about it here...
KevinsWither
Well-known member
once the specimen is done, would I put the desiccant in the box with the specimens?
Once the specimen is pinned and needs to be set to dry, that is the time to use the "dryer" to help remove the moisture from the specimen before it has a chance to turn black or fade; however, if you are referring to once it is already dried (and in the specimen/display case) there is no longer any need for the desiccant (silica-gel packs) as it should be as dry as it can be. The only thing I hear usually put into a display case is a single mothball to keep out "bugs" that would eat the dry specimens.
KevinsWither
Well-known member
would the hair dryer be used on the speciemens that are pinned and ready to dry for how long? Also my shadow box backing is black, how could I make the insects show up? I can't return the item.
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@KevinsWither No, there is no hair dryer used anywhere (by any info by me or the guide) that would move the specimen drying, fade the specimen colors, likely scorch it, and not recommended at all for any length of time.
The only dryer I suggested was a shoebox and lid with desiccant (silica-gel packs) or dry rice, filled under the drying board in the shoebox to help dry the specimen better by removing all the humidity from the container/air that was released from the specimen.
For the shadow box you got you could paint the insides white, use spray adhesive like 3M Super 77 (I'll had great results on various projects with it) to attach a white poster board back, glue in a cut piece of Styrofoam, or whatever you want to give you a lighter background to better show your pinned collection.
The only dryer I suggested was a shoebox and lid with desiccant (silica-gel packs) or dry rice, filled under the drying board in the shoebox to help dry the specimen better by removing all the humidity from the container/air that was released from the specimen.
For the shadow box you got you could paint the insides white, use spray adhesive like 3M Super 77 (I'll had great results on various projects with it) to attach a white poster board back, glue in a cut piece of Styrofoam, or whatever you want to give you a lighter background to better show your pinned collection.
KevinsWither
Well-known member
Also the backing is made of black velour backing. Is it like some fabric or something?
Yes, that is a fabric. In that case you can try to cut the fabric off around the background of your case, but that may lead to more problems (and there is noway to know what is behind it). In which case I would recommend you try one of the methods I mentioned in my last message except painting the fabric.
KevinsWither
Well-known member
Any materials for the backing or the place where the insect pins go? And it is wood behind the fabric backing.
There are three options really and that is cork, foam, or corrugated cardboard. Cork can be purchased in sheets or pre-cut pieces. Foam can range from the foam poster board found at many stores, styrofoam isn't really recommended as it easily breaks/crumbles but a type called Nu-Foam does fine, a product called Plastazote foam, construction/insulation foam (with the brand celotex recommended to 4-H DIY case makers), to about anything in between. Corrugated cardboard tends to be a poorman's DIY material, it is the layered cardboard that boxes are made of, but can be bought in sheets.
It seems the ideal thickness of the backing material is about 1/2".
With any material you will have to cut it to properly fit into your box, and if desired painted white (the most common color for displays); however, the best way to make it white and make it look better (as it hides pin holes and damage) is to wrap it in a heavy cloth, like canvas material.
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KevinsWither
Well-known member
I am doing a cork board backing with some canvas. Any idea where I can get it for cheap? I found that it is really expensive, more than the shadow box itself.
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KevinsWither
Well-known member
Any online websites for suppliers of these materials? I looked at a few sources, but the cork seems to be a lot.
Online stores will have them, but tends to run higher than prices I can find locally myself, I figure it is the same for you.
In that regard most of the craft stores (Jo-Ann fabrics, Michael's, Hobby Lobby) always seem to have more in stock at a local store (not found online) or at a discount/sale too - and most will have all the materials you need at one store. Speaking of which those I mention have 50% off coupons most of the time if you search for them at their websites for online or store use.
That said the cork I buy in sheets from DickBlick are here (my art material supplier local and online). A great option to save money would be to make a cork material sandwich - by that I mean a cork layer on top and form underneath. They sell it as well I found here, and at 3/8" in width (nearly the recommended 1/2") so it would work great but for that price you can simply glue the cork sheet to some Walmart or dollar store foam poster board sheet for less than half the price yourself.
At any rate you can see what I am talking about with the cork sandwich, but you only need the cork on top for your case.The canvas material (also at some stores referred to as duck cloth) can be purchased at (links to the material) Walmart, Jo-Ann Fabrics, Michael's, Hobby Lobby, etc. as well. Once again if you are looking to save money, just buy cotton fabric locally that has some strength and can cover well (test at the store by hiding something behind a layer to see how bad it will show through.
Depending on what you find local and prices/coupons you should be able to make the backing material for your display case (canvas top, cork layer, then foam layer) - for about $5-$10 total.
KevinsWither
Well-known member
Anything on relaxing papered specimens in general?
KevinsWither
Well-known member
Also I started to remove the backing, turns out that there is foam under neath that I want to remove. Any method on doing that?
Papered specimens?
If you are referring to prepared specimens, or ones already fully dried, you likely won't have much luck. Read the pinning guide, as it covers it.
If the specimen is fully dried you can try to relax it, but as said the in the guide the specimen will need to be relaxed for several days. In the process it will smell horrible once removed and likely turn black, and even then likely break/crack some if you try to reposition it. The relaxing process is for specimens that have dried some, but if it is fully dried you need to get another specimen.
If though the specimen is not fully dry, sure just use the relaxing jar as already explained previously, and explained in the pinning guide as well.
As I can't see what your box looks like, and I'm not personally doing it, I don't have much to go on. In general - to remove the foam I would suggest simply tearing it out as carefully as possible, and then scraping off the leftover foam/residue with a razor blade.
KevinsWither
Well-known member
Here are some links to the photos of the board as I do not know or have sucessfully posted images on there
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1sVBMeaEynzZEJXbThsRWJGQVk/view
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1sVBMeaEynzeU4zMjl2ZGc0YkU/view
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1sVBMeaEynzZEJXbThsRWJGQVk/view
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1sVBMeaEynzeU4zMjl2ZGc0YkU/view
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Two photos in your post are a close-up edge of your shadow box, the links are not view-able though as you did not set the photos sharing properties. About all I can tell is the width of the shadow box appears to be about 1", and the black foam is open celled and likely polyester.
The foam appears thin, about 1/4" so it should be easy to remove, so just pry up a side and remove it. Not sure what else you want me to say.
The foam appears thin, about 1/4" so it should be easy to remove, so just pry up a side and remove it. Not sure what else you want me to say.
KevinsWither
Well-known member
Alright I changed the links I believe so that the link is accessible. Now what glue could I use to attach a new foam or a cork board to it?
